One Piece Door Sill With Upturned Edges?

I've installed a few prehung exterior doors over the last few years, trying
to flash and caulk the doors as best as possible. Unfortunately, none of
these doors have roof overhangs to protect them from the weather, and storm
doors on the outside are not an option.
In almost every case, there have been problems with leaking and/or rot, and
now I need to repair or replace the door frames.
The door frame assembly really seems like a dumb design in the first place.
It relies on the caulking/sealant between the sill and door jambs to
prevent water from coming in, and then the wood sits right on the sill to
wick up moisture.
If I can find some place to order them, I'm planning to replace the rotted
door jambs with jambs that have a PVC bottom section to prevent the wicking
issue (like the "EverJamb" at
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, then
installing a sill pan under the jamb (like the "Jam Sill" at
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. But these still seem like work around fixes to an
inherent design flaw.
So, I'm curious if anyone makes a one-piece door sill with upturned edges?
Then the door jamb could overlap the sill edges, keeping the bottom off the
sill to prevent wicking. Wood doesn't touch water, and there's no where for
moisture to go but out. It seems like such a basic flashing detail to me,
rather than relying on caulk between the jamb and sill.
Any recommendations?
Reply to
Pressure Treated Door Jambs...... Stainless Steel door pans...... It is a problem. I have never seen any decent door jamb bottom. They all wick up water. They need a system of raised plastic ribs to keep the door jamb from sitting in water and still have a pan to keep any leakage outside. Weather stripped doors help, and sealed jambs left and right attached well to a threshold bottom sill member.(caulked,glued, attached) I have 5 doors that the jambs are all wrotten on the bottom left and right..... Will have to take out, and redue the jambs with pressure treated door materials. john
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Hi John,
Have you tried a jamb like the "EverJamb" where the bottom 6" or so of the side jambs are made of PVC? This sounds like it would prevent the wicking issue, though moisture could still work down the crack between the jamb and door sill. I also wonder how well latex paint would stick to the PVC portion (though I'd rather have peeling paint than rotten wood).
The "JamSill" seems like it would protect the structure WHEN water has worked it's way through the joints in the jamb, but my current door sills still have wood under the sill itself. Unless I could find a solid sill, or one made without wood under the aluminum, it seems like rot would still be inevitable.
Considering every home has more than one exterior door, a one piece sill with upturned edges to keep water out seems like a no brainer. I'm really surprised no one makes such a beast.
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It would be a good product if someone were to make a sill that is impervious to water. Not only a model that has a sealed pan but legs on either side of the jamb to accept the frame assembly higher than the closing bottom. The door would actually have to be cut to fit down in...........I am not sure what the logistics may be concerning the air seal either since the wood is usually kerfed to accept the weather seal. The kerf would have to match on the pan. On the North Coast of Calif. it is damp and wet and many doors go through damage issues due to moisture. I usually request a "wood tone" fiberglass door now, (no wood- it always is an issue with maintenance-I realize the esthetic value of wood also) and weather guard jambs, if not solid fir jambs that are much more expensive than standard finger joint models. Also the door needs to be primed a good oilbase primer(both side and bottoms and top), and most important is the bottom of the right and left jamb after cutting needs to be sealed........(this is usually where the first water intrustion comes from) Also the darn boots that are commercially made and fit over the bottom of the door collect water in them.......What good is that.....when water sits in the bottom of the door in a boot made to keep water out! I have seen many door with boot rot due to water collection in the weather boot. My best door installation is when I also construct an overhead roof or long eaves-roof overhang. Shadow is a problem then........ Maybe we need to go back to the cave man days and roll a stone........hummmm? john
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responding to
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Hello Anthony,
Over the years I have sucessfully solved this type of problem by bitumen priming the bottom part of the jamb in contact with the wall and the sill and using torch-on felt to form a shoe. You don't have to use a torch at this scale, it can be done with an electric paint stripper at full heat.
The beauty of this method is that the felt shoe actually seals the wood grain and also acts as a local dpc. stopping any dampness sucking up into the wood. as an extreme example, it has worked on an exterior gate jamb left for at least 10 years without any apparent deterioration even though the jamb was sunk below ground level.
Also you can paint over the felt if you feel the need to make the front face as part of the shoe. Guy
Reply to
Hi Guy,
My original post was from earlier this year, and I have since replaced both door jambs with composite frames I ordered through Lowes. I reused the doors themselves, taking exact measurements for the new frames.
Before I installed the new door frames, I added a sill pan by
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in each rough opening.
The composite frames won't rot or wick moisture like the original frame, and the sill pan will protect the framing on the off chance water should find it's way past the door jambs.
The only negative I encountered was with painting. I scuffed up the exterior trim lightly with sandpaper, and used a primer specifically made for PVC and plastic. But, it still took 3-4 coats of paint on top of the primer to cover the white plastic trim. Still, that's a small price to pay for the peace of mine knowing the door frames will last a long time.
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