New front door - any advice welcome

Hi I'm going to get a new front door. I need it to be a good secure one but also I have a limited budget.
A steel front door and frame costs the earth. I've been quoted 2000+ which is too much.
A PVC door and frame vary a lot in price but also in security. They typically have a 3 point locking system (which is a good thing) but I'm not sure just how strong a 'plastic' front door is? Anyone ever had a break-in via a PVC front door?
A solid wooden door is probably stronger than a PVC door but I've been told wooden doors can't have a 3 point locking system. And wooden doors are vulnerable around the lock(s) and the wooden frames also tend to splinter under force.
Any comments or advice very much appreciated!
Regards Andy
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

Have you considered an aluminium door? A powder-coated thermal-break aluminium door looks good, and is strong and secure. Obviously, it's dearer than uPVC - but hopefully not two grand's worth.
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Are the aluminium doors just an aluminium subframe with uPVC panels or they solid aluminium? I forgot to mention the door must have a wood grain finish to match other doors in the stairwell. Do you know if the aluminium comes with a wood grain finish? Thanks Andy
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

They're made out of an aluminium box section - usually with one or more double-glazed glass panels. For an outside door, a good standard of insulation is usually required (even if not in your case). This is usually achieved with a thermal break - where the box section is in two half-boxes joined together with resin. I have also seen aluminium doors with a thin layer of uPVC cladding on the inside.

You didn't say anything about wood-grain in the original question - nor did you say whether it was to be partially or wholly glazed. I was assuming - rightly or wrongly - that it was to be glazed. I have never seen a wood-grain aluminium door. The usual finish is powder coating in either white or brown - which is very smart, but looks nothing like wood grain. In my view, wood-grain effect uPVC is not very convincing - the best way of achieving wood grain being to make it out of *wood*!
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Sorry, didn't mention no window in door. What else are the panels made of? aluminium sheet?

Because it's in a block of flats I have to a door of similar appearance to the other original front doors. Doesn't matter if uPVC wood grain finishing not very convincing; just has to blend in. My concern about wooden doors and frames, is they are weak around the lock because of the wood removed to fit the lock. I am assuming here wooden doors are hung in to wooden frames but maybe I can have a steel frame? Andy
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

You've said that several times - but I don't think it's particularly true. A 1/2" slot for a mortice lock inside a 1 3/4" hardwood door still leaves plenty of meat either side.

Possibly - but are you trying to create Fort Knox? Obviously you want to take reasonable steps to make it secure - but at the end of the day, if any self-respecting villain is sufficiently determined to get it, he will do so whatever sort of door you've got!
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Sorry I've repeated myself but I assume most 'posters' are more likely to read replies to their posts rather than all the other replies. Would also need similar frame width for the lock keep. I don't know if it would be possible to fit a door frame with 1 3/4" wood.

Lol, not Fort Knox. I like to know my options and how secure each one is and, of course, cost. My main reservation about uPVC was the strength of the plastic (particularly the panels) and the strength of the plastic welds. As you can see there are differing opinions on the strength of uPVC. Andy
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also I have a limited budget.

which is too much.

typically have a 3 point locking system (which is a good

Anyone ever had a break-in via a PVC front door?

told wooden doors can't have a 3 point locking system.

also tend to splinter under force.

The Swedes make highly insulated front doors. Well with getting.
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Insulation isn't a problem as front door opens on to stairwell. Andy
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On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 17:11:50 +0100, "Andy Whitfield"

I had a hardwood door with three point locking ( similar to a PVC door ) except the pins retract into a metal box top and bottom which is housed in a mortice, so they are, or were, available.
Andy
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wrote:

good
system.
I haven't seen multipoint locking wooden doors but will do a search for them. My concern with wooden doors is that they are weak around the lock due to the wood has to be cut out to fit the lock. Did your door have a wooden frame (the bit fixed to the wall)? Andy
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A local window installer had, for some years, a uPVC window clamped down to a piece of chipboard. There was a tenner underneath the glass. They challenged anyone to get the tenner without breaking the glass or cutting through the chipboard. No-one managed it during the time I was dealing with them. uPVC is very tough and the multi-locking is very sound. When I had a uPVC front door installed at my Mother in law's just over a year ago I specified that it should only be openable from the outside with the key, even if the door was 'unlocked'. I'm quite satisfied that the door is very secure.
Kev
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Uno Hoo! wrote:

You just need to make sure she doesn't get hold of a key then...?
(Greets Kev - long time since we saw you in uk.legal, btw)
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

No, it it would need to be key-only from the *inside* for that idea to work!<g>
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Hi Steve - yes, I don't know why particularly. I'll perhaps have to take another look.
Kev
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I've been to a local firm that make the doors on-site. The uPVC box sections look pretty tough to me but they are plastic welded together. I'm not so sure how tough a plastic weld is? Maybe that's a weak point of uPVC doors? The panels in a uPVC door are rather thin and they look vulnerable to me. The ones I saw are a 5 layer sandwich. Layer of uPVC, then insulation polystyrene, then thin bit of MDF or aluminium, then polystyrene and then uPVC. To counter the weakness of the panels I'm thinking of going for an 8 panels door, so if a panel or two is removed the gap left should be too small for anyone to get through.

Surely all front doors are key operated only from outside?? Andy
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

Not necessarily. I have a porch door with an outside handle - so we can get under cover in a hurry when it's raining. There's another lockable door between the porch and the house. We only lock the porch at night or when staying away from home.
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Nope - it's up to you to specify how you want it to operate. My porch door can be opened from the outside with the handle when the door is unlocked although the actual house door cannot of course. I have two sets of friends, however, who had new UPVC front doors and were never asked how they wanted them configured. As a result, unless the physically lock the door from the inside, anyone can just turn the outside handle and walk in !
Kev
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I'll definitely add that to be list of requirements! Thanks Andy
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told wooden doors can't have a 3 point locking system.

also tend to splinter under force.
There are many wooden doors with multi-point locking available. I think Wickes offer pre-hung ones with 3 point but you can also get more than this from the specialists.
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