Moisture barriers and Wifi

A mate built a study in the back half of the garage / kitchen using foil backed plasterboard and it acted like a Faraday cage. With an AP in the room there was nearly no signal detected outside of it.

Yes. ;-(

Use a Poweline adaptor to put a hotspot in your study or carry on with the router acting as a hotspot etc?

Cheers, T i m

Yes. I have exactly the same problem.

Wired ethernet.

Basically that's what I've done. I've attached the old router to a powerline adapter and use it as an access point.

Another Dave

Powerline ethernet sucks syphilitic donkey dick.

Yes, hightly lilely

Other problems could be caused by very hard bricks. I suffer from that one in our house extension.

But they wrok - a fixed router is fine for a fixed computer, but family arrive with iPads and the like - they need wireless.

I've not long finished installing chicken wire between the floors in the cottage (compromise between what the underfloor heating suppliers specified, what Adam's mob want for cable runs and what BC wanted for fire resistance).

I have run cat 6 cable here and there as suggested. Now what? Those connectors don't look easy to wire up and what do you put at the outlet end?

They are stiffer and more awkward that cat5e (an for little benefit unless you're expecting to use 10Gbe network).

faceplate

A RJ45 wall mounted modular socket:

If you have lots of them, then a patch panel at the other end:

(or for a few, just more modular sockets like on the far end)

Then you have the start of a structured wiring system:

If you have a place that you consider to be a hub', wire them into a suitable RJ45 patch and use matching singles or doubles at the 'remote' ends.

They are more fiddly than difficult Tim, at the patch end particularly because of the quantity of cables involved.

So, you take the first cable, strip the outer sheath revealing enough of the inner cable to allow you to work on it and without untwisting any more of each than necessary, lay them over the relevant IDC connector then punch down with the right tool. That both pushed the wire into the blade to give the IDC connection but often trims the wires off to the right length at the same time. Repeat with the other

Std, mini, surface, flush, 1-4 way boxes, again with the wires punched in using the same 'code' (they are often colour coded and a couple of different ways) at the 'hub' end.

You need to start the ball rolling with how *you* want to lay it all out (if to use 1 big patch, a couple of smaller ... or separate boxes at the 'comms' end, depending on how many ends you have) and what type of boxes you want at the remote ends and we go from there (happy to pop over and hook it all up etc). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Most of my wiring has been done on Cat5e ('hundreds' of runs) so I'd have to research the Cat6 option.

The latest iMac Pro sports a 10gig ethernet connection... Handy if you have a local media/file server.

And yes, it's a mare - just done a lash up in Cat6a to test some equipment. It's like cabling with slinkys compared to Cat5e. And don't over bend it - permitted bend radius is around 25mm typically, so if you bent it in a "u", you'd have 2" between one side and the other.

As it looks like I might be helping Tim wire it all up, I wonder if it's too late to use the Cat6 to pull Cat5e though (I have enough of the low fume stuff here). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

II can certainly confirm that 15 feet is a long distance for wifi even with two open doorways when all your walls are foil backed...

ethernet (RJ45) faceplates on standard backing boxes: Punch down with a standard krone tool

Well it works but its only half duplex. And its shared. It's like going back to 10base T coax. Only one person can use it in one direction at a a time.

It works but its no substitute for CAT 5

The plugs aren't hard to put on. Sockets ditto. Most can be left unterminat ed as long as you can get to them if/when necessary. You need the right too l for the plugs.

And yes, 10G will be required, it's just a matter of when. That's how compu ters go. I remember when I thought 10M networking was way OTT. And indeed w hen we ran a 300 baud modem, 10M was unthinkable, but today it's usable but not what anyone would install. 10G will become out of date.

NT

That's seems like a remarkably fair assessment judging by my own experience with Netgear repeaters to feed Internet into my smart telly.

However isn't a Powerline-connected wifi repeater going to be better than a wireless wifi repeater?

I'm interested in this because my mum's room in a care home can't get their wifi signal, which means we can't help her Skype to other people. Despite paying gazillions of pounds per hour in care home fees, I think we may have to provide the equipment to get the wifi signal to her room.

I'm not sure what's the best approach.

Something like

Surface mount box or a deep metal one.

You need an insertion tool like

or a proper tool

Watch which way around it is as it cuts the excess wire off when you insert it.

Then you just need patch leads at each end like

Luxury, I have to manage with 600M WiFi.