How to ensure a square L-shaped cut

[JMP Tech Guy]

Hello,

I am just starting out in woodworking and have acquired all the major hand and power tools for my workshop. I am starting out with the basics and need to make some safety jigs. However, I didn't realize that even making a basic cut is challenging.

Let's say I want to ensure a square L-shaped cut, like the bottom of a table saw push shoe jig shown here:

that I have access to all the hand and power tools available. What is the best method and set of tool(s) to use to make such a simple cut? I could only come up with two methods: one involves cutting the long portion using a table saw, up to about 1 inch away from the corner of the next cut, then using a bandsaw or hand saw to cut the the rest. The second method would use a stacked dadoe blade and doing multiple cuts perpendicular to the face of the board.

Or maybe I can use a router but then how do I handle the corner?

I am sure many of you have made this kind of cut before hundreds of times. What method do you use to guarantee that the end result is a square and flat cut?

I would appreciate any tips and advice on how to handle this basic cut.

[you dont know who i really am]

[David Nebenzahl]

On 8/22/2009 10:03 AM JMP Tech Guy spake thus:

Bingo. If you don't have a bandsaw (I don't, wish I had one, hate everyone who does), just use a handsaw to finish the cut. Since this is just a jig, the cut doesn't have to be precise and surgically clean, but with care, it is possible to get such a cut, say if the piece were part of a piece of furniture.

Think simple, not about obtaining more exotic tools and jigs.

[dadiOH]

With table saw, make the short cut with miter gauge, raise blade to max, make long cut as far past short cut as necessary to release piece. That assumes the stock is thick enough that a bit of over cutting doesn't matter. Alternatively, make long cut to the short cut, finish long cut on bandsaw. _______________

____________

For what you are making, I wouldn't want it square, would prefer a slightly acute angle. I'd make that angle by gluing a bit of thin (1/8"?) stock about an inch long at the front end of the long cut. That way you can apply pressure on a board being pushed either at the toe or heal end of the push stick.

[Lew Hodgett]

Band saw or saber saw.

Lew

[Lowell Holmes]

I would make the short cut first by setting the blade height to the dimension of the cut and make the cut using the miter gage set at 90 degrees and holding the board vertical. I would make the long cut stopping short leaving the piece intact. I would finish the cut with a hand saw.

Actually, I would make the cut using my bandsaw.

[Doug Miller]

Can you be more specific?

Only if you over-complicate it, as you seem to doing. :-)

Band saw. You're making a push stick, not a piano. The corner does not need to be perfectly square; in fact, the cuts don't need to be perfectly straight or perfectly smooth, either.

[Swingman]

A good hand saw is all your need for starters, or forever for that matter.

That said, if you don't have a band saw, then run, don't walk, and buy the best "jigsaw" you can afford.

Bosch is one of the better models out there:

an EXCELLENT jig saw and a straight edge (a small speed square is excellent for a straight edge for these type cuts with a jigsaw) you can make cuts like this all day long.

Do NOT buy a B&D jigsaw, do NOT buy a Ryobi jigsaw, do NOT buy any el cheapo jig saw, buy a top-of-the-line jigsaw and it will save you time and money in the long run.

BTW, and IMO, you will find that push block a PITA to hold onto properly ... using that same "shoe" shape, make cutouts like the following and you will find it much easier, and safer, to use:

down to "Favorite table saw push stick design"

[HeyBub]

You could use this instead:

[Gordon Shumway]

I didn't even cut mine so I didn't have the angst you have. All I did was glue the needed portion to the bottom.

you can see I had a little too much time on my hands that day.

Gordon Shumway

[Tanus]

I agree, I think the OP is too, but I can sympathize. My first jigs were measured to the nearest 1/64th, dead nuts square, planed to simulate a baby's ass and either covered with BLO or gloss white paint.

For some jigs, I still worry about the accuracy, but I've worked myself out of making them look like they were designed, built and finished by Sam Maloof.

To the OP: Keep at it, but before you start something, step back and evaluate how important the accuracy or squarness is before you cut. I'm not advocating being sloppy. I'm just saying spend the time and effort where you really need it.

Tanus

[Steve Turner]

I love it! It could stand a nice coat of garnet shellacky though. :-)

[Steve Turner]

I *hate* that style of push stick; it makes me feel so out of control. I much prefer something shaped like this:

mine is a home-brewed jobby made from 1/2" baltic birch plywood.

[MikeWhy]

mostly square. Almost anything that will cut an inside corner will be good enough. Some glue and a few brads or screws will also work.

[David Nebenzahl]

On 8/22/2009 9:33 PM MikeWhy spake thus:

Brads or screws on a *push stick*?

I don't think so.

[J. Clarke]

Use brass or copper or aluminum.

[Lowell Holmes]

You can make the cut with a Japanese saw or a Carcass saw in less time than it takes to respond to the post. :-)

[MikeWhy]

A definite brain fart. Skip the hardware; glue alone will suffice. The point being, rotary cutters aren't well suited for inside corners. Absent a need to adhere to arbitrary aesthetics, the same function can be met by building up the piece rather than cutting the notch.

[-MIKE-]

CA glue and accelerant works great for attaching sacrificial heals to a push shoe.

[David Nebenzahl]

On 8/23/2009 5:43 AM J. Clarke spake thus:

Well, even those are going to give you a nasty surprise the first time you push them into your blade, though they'll likely not damage it.