Gentlemen,
Is there some reason why one cannot have flourescent tubes and LED floodlamps running off a common supply? I have found that when paralelling up the LED floodlamps with flouro tubes, the tubes no longer work; don't even try to start-up, despite the fact that have full mains voltage connected to them. The LEDs OTOH, are totally fine. Anyone else had this experience?
I don't see how this might be an issue as long as there is nothing really outlandinish about the load then it should just work. Brian
Works fine for me.
I have found that when
What do you mean by "paralleling"? Aren't all lights (and everything else connected to the mains "paralleled"? Perhaps there's something funny about the common supply.
I just meant to make it clear I'd not connected them in series, that's all.
Worse. I have weird interactions between dimmers, banks of LEDS and incandescents..where dimming one bank starts another bank flickering. I conclude there is some sort of HF hash being put out...
Yeah right....
maybe you need eggs and baking powder with the Flouro tubes
Oh! Well, if it can happen to YOU it can happen to the best of us, I guess. I suppose it's time to bite the bullet and dump ALL the remaining tubes and embrace greener tech for once! The old fluos turned out to be 2400mm long - much longer than the 6' they'd appeared from floor level. Perhaps maintaining a discharge over that distance is a more precarious undertaking than with the more common, shorter tube lengths usually encountered.:-/
Or buy better quality 'grow lamps'
Oh I see what all these odd remarks are about now. No, this is in relation to my earlier thread about replacing the workshop tubes as they'd grown dim over time. Don't need "grow lamps" where I am anyway.
LED tubes are not quite as efficient as a good fluoro (sp!) but they don't flicker as badly and the light quality is softer and more even across the spectrum And they don't contain mercury.
And you can even get plug in replacement tubes
Er.... LEDs less efficient than fluoro?? Are we being lied to by TPTB about that as well?
typical LED 806 lumen lamp under 7 watts
I'd say that's a "no"
Just a pet peeve, was drummed into us, not flour.
There's actually a web page that explains the *multiple* types of LED tube products, and how to get the best from them. Type A. Type B. Type C. Type D=A+B ?
With a chart like this, you can see that one product, touts
140 lumens per watt. The industry does not place a premium on providing efficiency information, so that chart might be all that you get in the way of hints. What it does mean, is if you shop around, you might find a good one.Removing the ballast, and not using Type A, would be a start.
Type A ? Easiest Installation
LED Tube with Integrated Driver ? Compatible and Operated on Existing LFL Ballast
Type B ? Simplest Total System
Ballast Bypass LED Tube ? Wired to Mains
Type C ? Best Performance
LED Tube with Remote Driver
*******Page 32 Comparison of three lighting solutions.
There's no number for the remote driver case.
The LED tube has a firing angle of 160 degrees and does not rely on the reflector returning the "back light".
LED versus CFL.
Wow! An unusually comprehensive answer for this group! Thanks.
The really big industrial tubes ere I think around 15%, the compacts much less - 7% -compared with LEDS at 10% IIRC.and incandescent at 1%.
But I haven't looked recently, LEDS may be getting a bit better
as I recall there wasn't much in it between LED and fluoro and LED light is simply nicer, and the tubes are like for like replaceable...And dont contain mercury or sharp glass...
Actually if you look carefully fluoros are in the 60-70l/With LEDS in the 50-60l/W range so the fluoros have a slight edge, but its not worth getting excited about - lighting perception is logarithmic and you wont notice the difference.
The Natural Philosopher wrote: `
They get better on shelves more slowly than they do in research labs ...
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