My (non-SDS) Bosch drill died last week, and I am looking for a
I was initially going to spend something in the region of £100, but as I
do less DIY at the moment, I thought that perhaps the Lidl one at £40
will do. See
I am looking for something reasonably powerful, as the walls in our
house are particularly tough, and for very occasional use.
Also, it appears that it comes with two chucks - SDS and "standard",
which would be useful as I have never used an SDS drill, so most of my
bits are standard.
Any thoughts please?
I think it's suitability may depend on how often you use a corded
drill for 'bigger jobs', inc non drilling?
If you have to have only one drill then an SDS can probably do things
most non SDS's can't (better than the 'hammer' position on a non SDS
fir example) but you might find it a bit big and heavy for 'ordinary'
drilling jobs, like making pilot holes in wood or even drilling
smaller holes through steel.
In an ideal world you would have a 'big / SDS' drill for core drills
and chiseling *as well* as your std corded (for wire brushing or any
prolonged high load type work), a decent battery drill (where being
portable is key) and even a Demel for the smaller / finer stuff (and
you can even fit other variants in between, like an air powered drill
/ die grinder, pillar drill, brace and bit etc). ;-)
Cheers, T i m
If you have some difficult walls to drill then you cannot beat an SDS drill
, our last house was built from over baked engineering bricks from a local
brickyard, ordinary hammer drills just could not touch them. Then I got my
trusty ELU and never looked back. My SDS also has a Jacobs chuck that fits
in the SDS tool holder but I only use it in absolute desperation as it real
ly is a kludge. The tool holders do not grip the SDS bits like a chuck, ins
ert a drill bit and you can feel slight movement longitudenly. Insert the J
acobs chuck and it throws the whole balance of the machine and the accuracy
. If you want to use it for drilling in other materials other than brick or
concrete then you are better off paying the extra and getting twist drills
that have an SDS tool end and fit directly into the tool holder. SDS drill
s are kind on the bits, I have a 7mm bit I bought over 20 years ago and it
is still usable today despite seeing regular service.
On Sun, 1 May 2016 22:53:50 -0700 (PDT), Tricky Dicky
Yup, ok in an emergency if you only have the SDS with you and then
find you have to go though some metal etc.
Agreed. I think they are a bit more expensive and no so common
(especially in sets) but as you say, are available and you might just
need just a select few sizes (6, 8, 10mm)?
That might be a record for a drill bit! ;-)
Anyone remember these:
My Dad had some and I did use them to reasonable success when a lad.
Fairly slow going though! Funny that whilst obviously 'very old'
(60's?) in concept, hand powered drills have gone back thousands of
What I did use the Rawlplug 'drills' more regularly for, pre 'hammer
drills' was breaking any stone you came across when drilling a hole
with an ordinary masonry bit and electric (or even hand) drill. One or
two hits with that and hammer and you could then drill through the
remains of the stone without burning the tip of your drill out (or the
hole going wildly off line).
Those were the days of regular use of the brace and bit, before the
advent of flat / speed drills for wood. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
But that is a masonry bit?
I thought we were talking of ordinary HSS bits but on an SDS mount
(like for when you are drilling though concrete and hit a steel plate
or some such)?
Cheers, T i m
Well yes, but I'm not sure it's a good idea to drill though those. ;-)
There was something on that on TV the other day. The guy cast a 'beam'
of concrete, placed it across two blocks (making a bridge), stood on
it and it just collapsed. He then did another one with a bit (or bits)
of Rebar (steel rod) in it and he even ended up hitting it with a
sledge hammer, and whilst it may have cracked and lost bits off the
side, it didn't 'break' (as in collapse from being a bridge).
The demonstration / lesson was that whilst concrete is good in
compression it isn't good in tension or bending, whereas steel is good
in tension (and compression / bending, if the section is correct, just
that it's more expensive than concrete) but add a bit of steel to
concrete and it too is good in tension and against bending (unless you
drill through it of course). ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Still done today, after you realise the core drill you just used is
just a bit too small. ;-(
The thing is ... and accepting doing the job for someone else for
money can be different from doing it for yourself for 'fun', I think
that sometimes there can be more satisfaction when you have done
something 'the old way', especially if that way gives you a better job
I think I'm saying that sometimes it's nice to say cut a piece of wood
by hand (well, using a saw <g>) and using your skills and techniques
to ensure the cut is true and square etc, as there is ending up with a
nice true cut after spending some time ensuring the guides on your
power saw are true etc. Craftsman versus machine operator?
Now, If I had to make 50 such cuts then I know the novelty would wear
off pretty fast but you get the idea. ;-)
My Dad was a pretty good d-i-y type carpenter and because I spent much
of my youth 'press ganged' as his helper or just 'weight' (when
sitting on wood he was cutting etc) it always amazed me to see a
perfect joint when sawn by hand and maybe just finished off with a
chisel or plane.
'Think thrice, measure twice, cut once' and that has saved me lots of
wasted material over the years (especially with what I think is a mild
for of numerical dyslexia. 1505 mm somehow becomes 1055 mm by the time
I transfer the measurement to the material).
Cheers, T i m
When I started this handyman malarkey over 10 years ago I would always
use a chop or circular saw even for a single cut. Now I use a hand saw
(unless there are lots of cuts) it's a really nice feeling using a sharp
hand saw and getting a spot on result.
Even better, no finding a power point, extension lead etc. By the time
you've done that lot you could have finished the job.
A great many (about 50) years ago, when I was starting my tool collection,
I went into good tool store to buy a tenon saw. "Brass backed or steel
backed?" "What's the difference?" "Brass are better, but if you don't know
the difference you won't want one." It only took one job to decide I did
want a brass backed one. I still have that one.
I was brought up on old saws that needed a lot of hard work to cut
anything. Last week I bought a Stanley saw for £7 and I was amazed how
it could cut! And of course the price. 40 years ago you would have paid
more than that.
Depends entirely how how good you are with a hand saw - which is the
original cordless saw. I could cut a deck board dead on square before
you got the cordless out of the case.
Decent cordless saw = £300+
Decent hand saw = £8. Never runs out of charge, takes up less space,
don't need to store spare batteries & charger.
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