connecting up gas hob

I have a gas hob to be fitted in the worktop of a standard fitted kitchen w= ith laminate worktop. Underneath is a 3-draw cabinet with 60mm pipe space b= ehind. The connection from the 22mm supply will be 15mm copper rising vertically b= ehind the unit in the pipe space, a right-angle elbow into the cabinet and = copper running just below the worktop for an inch or two, then a 15mm x 1/2= " iron elbow connecting to male bsp taper on the hob.

What is the usual procedure to make the connection, since there is no acces= s behind the cabinet when the worktop and hob is being fitted ?

There's only a couple of inches in which to make the connection below the w= orktop, so it seems that the pipe would have to be positioned very accurate= ly before the units are fixed in place.

Cheers, Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson
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Just use a rubber hose

Reply to
Phil L

sm_jamieson explained :

Use a gas plug and socket, with flexible pipe. Mount the socket far enough away from the hob, to get an easy sweep of the flexi pipe and ensure there will be no contact between hot hob and pipe once all in situ.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

...if the manual for the hob permits it....

Reply to
Toby

...if the manual for the hob permits it....

Reply to
Toby

The manual says:

The end of the inlet connection point of the gas hob has a 1/2" (20.955 mmm) thread that allows for:

  • fixed connection
  • connection using a flexible metal pipe (L min. 1 m - max. 3m)

Anyone know what this "flexible metal pipe" is ?

Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

I don't think its allowed on fixed hobs. Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

sm_jamieson wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

'TracPipe' is a semi rigid flexible metal pipe. (Google that, plenty of info on it) can be used to connect to fixed appliances.

Although flexible cooker hoses are flexible metal pipes covered in rubber I would not think that these are refered to.

There must be a means of isolation for the gas to the hob which you seem to have omitted.

Read up more of the manufactures instructions and gas regulations if you are thinking of doing it yourself. You must be competent to do this kind of work.

It would probably be better/safer to get a Gassafe registered person in to do the gas work.

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Reply to
Heliotrope Smith

Ouch that tracpipe is expensive ! I forgot to mention the isolation valve - that will be included and be acce= sible at the back of the neighbouring cupboard.

My brother in law is gassafe and he will be doing it, so I guess I should a= sk him how he wants to do it. It might be possible to leave the cabinet loose so it can be removed when t= he worktop and hob cutout is in place, but I dont like the leaving the thin= strips of worktop behind and in front of the hob unsupported. However I co= uld lower the unit legs to get it back in fairly easily.

Or I could make a cutout in some of the spare worktop and use that to posit= ion the pipe, then mark it through onto the main worktop. The should get it= in place to a millimetre tolerance.

Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

As an extra, what is the requirement for clips to hold gas pipework these days - what type and how far apart?

-- MarkBR

Reply to
Mark BR

It is if the manufacturer's instructions state that a rubber hose may be used.

SteveW

Reply to
SteveW

thread that allows for:

It's the standard flexible cooker hose (for natural gas), usually with a bayonet cap connector one end and screwed connection the other end (although screwed both ends also exist). It's actually a metallic pipe (spiral a bit like a chrome shower hose outer), with a rubber layer on the inside and outside to make it gas-tight. Hobs usually use the thinner type, and a full cooker (hob+oven+grill) use the thicker type.

The reference to "flexible metal pipe" is to rule out the use of propane gas cylinder hoses (and loads of other unsuitable types like garden hose pipes;-).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

sm_jamieson wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

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Reply to
Heliotrope Smith

Is that a reference to what's known as a cooker hose?

Reply to
GB

with laminate worktop. Underneath is a 3-draw cabinet with 60mm pipe space= behind.

behind the unit in the pipe space, a right-angle elbow into the cabinet an= d copper running just below the worktop for an inch or two, then a 15mm x 1= /2" iron elbow connecting to male bsp taper on the hob.

ess behind the cabinet when the worktop and hob is being fitted ?

Make a cut-out in the cabinet back and take the drawer out when fitting.

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

tchen with laminate worktop. Underneath is a 3-draw cabinet with 60mm pipe = space behind.

cally behind the unit in the pipe space, a right-angle elbow into the cabin= et and copper running just below the worktop for an inch or two, then a 15m= m x 1/2" iron elbow connecting to male bsp taper on the hob.

o access behind the cabinet when the worktop and hob is being fitted ?

In the end, the cabinet below the hob has been left loose so the legs can b= e dropped slightly and the cabinet pulled out. The gas will be connected to= the hob with the cabinet well out of the way. I've cut out the top rear of= the cabinet where needed to allow space for the gas pipe and the mounting = clips. The cabinet can then just be pushed back under and the legs raised.

Cheers, Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

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