I don't think the water company will care at all, but the highway authority might do if your road is at all busy. If it isn't then someone might difg a couple of feet ignoring the rules about getting permission. But I would light it at night if it can't be done in a day.
Isn't the lead pipe soft enough to be able to make it rond enough for a leadloc?
Two different views about sizing of the leadloc including shaving down the pipe in the second video.
And it may well be possible to push the pipe through the last couple of feet (covered with thick polythene to protect it) behind the last cut off piece of the lead pipe.
Thames Water appear to care to the extent they want you to (a) use an approved plumber who self-certifies the work or (b) leave the trench open for them to inspect the work later.
I have a small kiln and to improve that situation I made wrap-around "pillows" of glass-fibre roof insulation inside "pillow-cases" of the woven glass fibre mat as used in car-body repair. Don't rely on thermostat readings, get a range of proving cones to confirm/calibrate any meter readings
My use of a kiln, to test out versions of things called mathematical tiles.
In message <r8j8lb$aei$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, at 08:48:58 on Sat, 2 May 2020, N_Cook snipped-for-privacy@tcp.co.uk> remarked:
I don't have a kiln, and if I did it wouldn't be connected the potable water supply.
No big deal to connect lead to copper using solder. For a decent plumber.
And copper to plastic then gets you into not needing a decent plumber.
In message snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk>, at 11:15:45 on Sat, 2 May
2020, "Dave Plowman (News)" snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk> remarked:The consensus is that this is now banned for potable water.
One thing I've learnt in this thread is that there's probably no such thing as a lead-polypipe connector. You have to go via copper.
I've read the thread as pointing to either copper soldered to lead or a lead-lock; and you can use lead-locks to plastic pipe (with insert where appropriate).
The lead-loc plus range P/N DP200x are for MDPE rather than copper
sizing/fitting instructions in case Roland wants to keep an eye on whether his plumber is doing it right
In message snipped-for-privacy@outlook.com, at
11:59:49 on Sat, 2 May 2020, Robin snipped-for-privacy@outlook.com remarked:
which isn't allowed.
Indeed. But is there no such thing as a poly-lead leadlock?
It's not a huge issue, other than trying to get the plumber to put one (or two) on his van before he arrives.
You can put polypipe in a standard compression fitting for copper tube. I believe copper olives are preferred, but you can get loose copper olives easily. And obviously you must use a pipe insert. I suspect the end result is more reliable than a push fit connector.
They have banned a soldered joint in a lead pipe carrying potable water?
Does Trump make the rules in the UK?
PS there may be a size matching problem with MDPE but if you can't get a suitable size leadlock or suitable size MDPE then I think you can get
28/25 or 22/20 adaptor olives.
other brands are available. I've used Philmac in the past with 15mm PEX. We don't know the size of the lead pipe from a quick search some examples are
If there's lead in the solder, yes. And in Regulations made in 1999 so you know which government to slag off.
The lead-loc manufacturer recommends not measuring diameter, instead measuring twice the circumference with a piece of cotton, the halving it (presumably to reduce error).
Lead to MDPE here
Lead free solder has been around for ages.
I ask again. You have perhaps miles of lead pipe carrying potable water. A single solder joint - even with lead solder - is going to make a difference?
I don't think lead free solder will work. (It doesn't work for most things!) And perhaps a fresh lead surface will dissolve more for a few decades than the coated internal lining of the whle of the old pipe, I don't know but it is quite credible.
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