Sure, but the wiring *in between* is continuous.
No, and that's fine (and may have done so myself. However, if I was to remove that 'joint' / socket for some reason and if it was practical, I would still rather replace the entire section from end to end than have a connection there.
I guess I just don't like *unnecessary / avoidable* joints in cables.
Cheers, T i m
Gdgd.
But what is the purpose of the grommets ITRW? If they are to protect the cable as it's drawn though the punched hole in say a steel backbox then the chances are the grommet will pull out anyway? If it's there to prevent the sharp edge of such a hole cutting though the cable sheath and conductor insulation once fitted, what sort of vibration are you expecting in this house? ;-)
Whenever I've fitted a metal box and wiring, when I leave the cables as they enter the box they would be 'formed' so tat they would sit with the least possible pressure between cable and box (I do fit grommets in any case of course).
Again, I don't generally make manky holes (have a good selection of tapered / stepped drills and will generally de burr them in plastic or steel).
Ok, it does take me longer to do stuff but I can't generally do it any other way ...
Cheers, T i m
why are you claiming I choose to omit them?
NT
Why bring the subject up, then? If you are saying you use them - but think it perfectly OK for others not to? Especially since it doesn't conform to current regs.
you're funny
NT
My preferred method is to use a normal steel box. Fit wood battens either side of the hole to the back of the plasterboard and fix the box to those. That will never come away. It is also neater than a plaster box - especially with flat plate sockets or non white plastic types, as no visible flange.
If decoration isn't a problem, screw through the plasterboard into the batters to fix them using rust proof screws and fill over. If say you wish to preserve wallpaper, etc, glue them to the back of the plasterboard.
In my case because I needed to fit an extra socket and a supply for an understairs light, couldn't continue the subsequent work until I had and couldn't find where I'd put my earth sleeving.
I will go back and add it when I've finished threading additional network and satellite cables that are also going in.
SteveW
Good idea but that's assuming a plasterboard over stud or decent sized battens. I'm not sure if this wall is all battens or dot-n-dab / mix so the gap behind the plasterboard may not be sufficient (for the mini battens). If it isn't then I'm probably going to have to chop out some of the blockwork as well (but can then fix the box back to the wall).
I think he's got more of the same so if he's happy with what's there already ...
It is (in that I don't want to be doing any). ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Agreed for adding a spur.
But putting pedantic hat on, this altering and extending a circuit so it needs approval etc.
No more approval than fitting a spur.
Although to do it correctly, even from a DIY view, a simple ohms test of the ring circuit BEFORE you start should be done.
Metal CU?
And you are talking bollocks.
Err, no :-(
Owain
any claim in particlar that's 'bollocks'?
Installing a complete new circuit might count as notifiable, but extending one outside of a "special location" does not.
Yes - if there is something solid behind the hole, fix to that.
I wonder how many DIYers competent to change their own CU would be bothered doing any of that?
I'm not finding the data, but somewhere ISTR seeing a figure of 0 diyers having had their local council dept inspect their work.
NT
I've just taken a quick look at:
Surprised at how much does:
? installation of a new or replacement heating system or boiler, regardless of fuel type ? installation of a new or replacement oil tank ? installation of a bathroom if new plumbing is installed or existing plumbing is altered ? installation of a fixed air conditioning system ? addition of a radiator to an existing heating system (may not need notifying in some circumstances) ? installation of a new or replacement fuse box (or consumer unit) or any new electrical circuit connected to the fuse box, and alterations to electrical installations around a bath or shower ? replacement of window and door units ? replacement of roof coverings on pitched and flat roofs
Flip - and if you do any of that in Sheffield, the charge for inspection
*application* is over £200 - then over £1000 for the inspection/notice.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.