That house is timber framed with insulation behind some of the sockets. So not possible to use plaster to the back. Not really practical in an ordinary stud wall either.
We'll just have to differ there.
Well you have a joint at every socket... so doing it the way described keeps all the joints at the socket location, even if some are not using terminals mounted in the socket.
I'd say a competent amateur in his own time can do as good a job as a professional working to a deadline.
Almost. It takes skill to do some jobs that you dont acquire overnight.
Of course many tradespeople dont actually do as good a job as they could because people want cheap jobs.
Of course. Especially since the results of any bodging have to be lived with.
One common one is a total re-wire. A DIYer will know where he'd like all the sockets and switches. A pro may well err on the side of convenience.
If I'd seen that I'd have ordered a "stop all work" on the project. Mainly to grab the immediate attention of all the companies involved. I'd then want poeple from those companies with authority and electrical regs knowledge attend site to sort it out, no further work being allowed until they attend.
(Any unrelated work would be allowed to restart once those with authority are on site).
If you can't point to a "law" that has been "broken" how can one be prosecuted or it be "illegal".
If your friend wants to pay your "expenses" or make a donation for the pleasure of your company there's no harm in that either.
Get stuck in without worry. :)
The lack of grommets or sleeving would see you loose your NICEIC entitlement.
I have one starting next weekend (to do over a couple of weekends). They have not moved in and are not moving in until it is rewired, new kitchen, new bathroom etc and they have no idea what they want.
Well I am sure that they can work out the sockets positions to suit what they want without my help. In fact they should be able to do it better than me as they (well she) will have already decided in her mind what furniture will be going where.
To make thinks more interesting they have both offered to labour for me to keep costs down as well as getting the rewire done ASAP.
Now I have been given the info that she is better than him at DIY.
I am not sure they do them for that faceplate.
They seem to do, 1, 2, 1+1 and 2+1 gang drywall back boxes, but not 3 gang
If I was one of those doing unrelated work, I'd tell you what you could do with your job, sideways.
As with most things it's a mix of good rules and not so much ones.
NT
Nor a 3 gang plastic back box.
It only fits the MK 3 gang metal back box.
They were specced at a school a few years ago. Might as well have just fitted 2 x 2 gang sockets as it was in a ring circuit.
I'm guessing grommets wouldn't apply to a plastic backbox would they?
Cheers, T i m
Given how cheap a box of grommets and a hank of sleeving is, why would you choose to omit them?
No, but given how sharp some plastics can be compared to PVC sheating, perhaps they should.
I used grommets on my meter tails into the CU to tidy up my manky drilled holes.
Owain
Is that right? Handy to know as I thought unfused spurs were a no-no.
Of course, but none in between ideally?
Understood.
Cheers, T i m
Which if think about it laterally, can simply mean you add a socket more than you actually needed -just so you have a convenient place to join into the existing wiring.
(there are a number of other reasons I have installed a socket, including needing an access hole for something in a wall, and that was a handy way to fill it!)
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