I'd like to add a socket in the kitchen as a spur. What are the regs regarding positioning? I'd like to put the new socket on the outside of a kitchen cabinet, pretty much back to back with an existing socket inside.
Can't see anything at:
Is the inside socket connected to the ring main ?. Seems an unusual location anyway.
If it is a spur, from the ring main proper, then you can't add another socket anyway.
All depends if you are connecting a high-current device to this new socket really (assuming earthing and RCD already in place).
There are not hard and fast rules for kitchen sockets, but there are guidelines. Some of which are:
Keep at least 300mm away from sinks.
Make sure the accessory you are adding is appropriate for the location - e.g. not likely to get sprayed with water, or use a pull switch in locations where wet hands are more likely etc.
Don't position where trailing leads will tend to cross hot areas.
For sockets in the back of utility spaces which can't be reached when the device is in place, provide an additional point of isolation.
Its generally preferred to have electrical accessories mounted on fixed bits of the building rather than furnishings etc (but in built in kitchens its not unusual to have switches or sockets in cupboards etc).
Regarding adding a spur, check the circuit type and make sure the existing socket is not already a spur from a 32A circuit.
Yes, ring. The kitchen has three inside cupboard sockets. Works quite well for things like cooker, dishwasher and fridge. Easy to access and switch on/off.
No plan to, but all the same I'd like to be as compliant as any other
13A socket.
Excellent, thanks.
Yep, on a ring.
Of course you can, just change the breaker to 20A.
Probably not a good idea in a kitchen - many will use a large slice of the capacity of a 32A circuit[1]. Better to turn the original spur into a fused one if needs be.
[1] If its a dedicated kitchen ring, then you could split it into two 20A radials, and then have all the spurs you like. However one would need to take care of where the big loads are likely to be so that you don't overload the smaller circuit.
So in this case, add your socket, and wire to the nearest socket. Take care with screw lengths if it really is backing on to an existing one!
That is called design failure. There are many other ways to do the job properly.
You mean such as fitting a dobule socket instead of 2 singles, and cutting a slot in the kitchen cabinet to put it in? And chamfering the slot so plugs can still go in? :)
NT
No its called redesigning it to do what you want.
20A circuits in the kitchen are liable to not do that. But... I've seen an entire flat on one 5A use before now. The oven was nonthermostatic.
NT
Do what you want apart from run a load bigger than 20A?
Do you actually switch off your cooker? No clock, etc? Fridge? I agree with having the sockets reasonably accessible for built in appliances , though, and if regs said you couldn't mount one on a fixed cupboard, I'd ignore them. ;-)
Yes.
So in fact useless for a kitchen then.
Depends on how many circuits there are and what's in there.
Its probably fine if its counter top sockets to run food mixers and stuff like that.
Not much use if they want to run an induction hob from a 13A socket though, well maybe not you can run my Bosch one from a 13A socket if you must. However it restricts how much is on at anyone time if you do that. Of course some idiot would probably reset it to use maximum current and blow the fuses.
Most kitchens have higher loads such as a dishwasher.
Don't bothering mentioning rings or I will simply point out the 7th planet from the sun.
Well, you could do it & if the appliances were plugged into carefully chosen radials you'd probably get away with it. But I wouldn't recommend it.
13A appliances don't eat 13A much of the time, and MCBs/fuses/T&E tolerate well over rated current for a while.NT
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