losing water pressure

Jul 04, 2005 6 Replies

Hello



I was getting about 5 gallons drawdown from my 8 year old 40 gallon pressure tanks.



I have a 50' well. Recently, my water pressure started to go down to nothing, and I noticed my untreated water looks green, not the usual iron-brown color.



I decided to install a new pressure tank. I thought that solved the problem...but no.



To regain water pressure, I turn on a faucet on and turn (on and off) the incoming water valve (after the tank).



That works for awhile.



Any suggestions?



I'm not sure what purpose the incoming water valve does. It sounds to me like:

A) Your well is going dry.

B) Your pressure tank is not charged correctly. With the tank drained, the shrader valve on the bladder should show 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure setting on your well pump pressure switch

C) Your pressure switch differential setting is too low.

Most likely B, then A, then C.

But that is just a guess based on limited information.

Stretch

Although it is a common misconception, the water tank has absolutely nothing to do with system pressure (unless it is totally waterlogged). System pressure is set by the pressure switch.

In additon to what Stretch posted, a common cause of poor pressure is a plugged water filter/softener. Others are corroded pipes, partly closed valve, some crud partly blocking a fitting.

Harry K

I bypassed both the water softener and iron filter and it is the same.

But by opening and closing the valve I can get water back.

Perhaps I should get a solenoid to that on the hour? turn the water on and off?

I can't think of anything that would cause that effect. Sorry.

Harry K

Debris getting lodged on the valve? Opening and closing the valve may be allowing this debris to pass. I actually know nothing about these systems though.

You may know nothing about it, but I do agree you are correct. There is a chunk of crud in that valve. Most likely a piece of rust the busted off inside the pipe somewhere. I am going to assume that valve is near the tank. Replace the valve and all piping on the pump side of it to the tank, which most likely is 4 or 5 feet of pipe at most plus an elbow and maybe a union. While this is apart, look into the pipes on the "house: side of the valve and see if it's also clogged with rust (iron), or other crud. If so, you may be changing more pipes.

One other thing. Most pressure tanks have a drain valve on the tank or on the pipe coming out of it. How is the pressure there? (if you have one). If it's good there, you got clogged pipes and that valve.

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