I have a Watts 25AUB 1" water pressure regulator that seems to be
leaking internally. As long as there is *some* water flowing somewhere
(even a bathroom sink that's just dripping), the pressure in the
house's pipes is around 60 PSI. However, if you shut off all the
water, the pressure builds up to the street pressure of 130 PSI within
a few minutes. Then you get a blast of water when you first turn on a
faucet until the pressure goes back down to 60.
Are these pressure regulators known for needing regular cleanings?
(It's six years old.) Should I invest in a repair kit or a whole new
Usually they will go much longer than that without service.
You may have stuff in the water that is building up.
I would take apart and see what a good cleaning does.
If that model has an internal "bypass" check valve,
that could be leaking, rather than the main valve.
Thanks, I'll try to take a peek inside and see what it looks like.
Unfortunately, the guys who installed it put it right up against the
basement wall. I can easily remove the cone-shaped piece because it's
on the front, but the two plugs on the other side are right up against
the wall. :(
This seems like a simple problem but it is actually complicated by the
fact that you have a hot water heater. Even if your pressure regulator
is sealing perfectly, when your hot water heats up, the water will try
to expand and if no water is on and the regulator valve is sealed
tightly like it should, the water will have nowhere to go and the
pressure on your side will increase. The pressure regulatr can't
reduce it because if it opens, you will get the street pressure and if
it stays closed you get the internal pressure build up. Some
regulators have a bypass so the pressure at least will not build up
above the street pressure.
So what I am saying, is before you take the regulator apart, turn off
the water heater and see if you still get the pressure build up. If
the pressure build up is due to the hot water heater, I think the only
REAL solution is to add an expansion tank which has compressable air.
This seemingly simple problem is really not so simple.
Yeah, but I'm seeing this gradual pressure increase al the time, even
when the hot water tank is not being heated. The tank is heated from a
boiler with an oil burner, and I defnintely know when that is running.
ok then I agree, look at the regulator valve..
when you think about it, that valve has a tough job, since water is not
compressable, if the valve has even the smallest leak, the pressure
will gradually build up.
You're right, It is a tough job, and I'm thinking it's too important of
a job to be trusted to one device. I'm wondering if I need some sort
of secondary device downstream, like a pressure relief valve set to
about 75psi. That way, once I do fix my regulator, the pressure in the
house won't rise to 130psi it the regulator fails again.
Where might you dump all the water that will result?
Instead, how about a second regulator in series?
It's beside the point here, but as was suggested
you really need a thermal expansion tank for the
hot water line.
OK, I bought a repair kit and took my regulator apart. The seat disc
didn't look too bad, but I replaced it anyway. What did look bad was
the small O-ring that formed the seal between the two chambers. I
replaced that, and the regulator is regulating again!
Now that I have everything sealed up, I'm now seeing that hot water
heater thermal expansion problem that you guys have been talking about.
This whole thing started when I fixed some leaky toilets. It turns out
the leaks were enough to relieve the pressure and compensate for the
leak internal to the regulator. I want my leaky toilets back! :)
Watts 25AUB regulators are economical and effective to reduce
residential water pressure from 130-150 psi to 50-60 psi, but
chlorine, calcium, etc. in the water erodes the seat washer (13/16"
O.D. x 11/32" I.D. x 1/8" thick) resulting in pressure creep
severe enough to necessitate replacement. If a local hardware or
plumbing supply store does not carry one, Grainger offers one
from Accurate Products in Chicago, Grainger part # 4PAG1,
AP# API-1137-EPDM. Its cheaper than a new regulator or
a full replacement part repair kit.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.