I have a problem with my refrigerator. I have extremely high
water pressure and the filter in the refrigerator keeps popping.
Then I have water dripping all over the place. So I just got
a pressure regulator and put it in the line to the refrigerator.
And I have what I should have expected. Nice low pressure when
the water is running, but full line pressure when it is not
running. Is there some kind of small bladder tank or something
of the sort that I could put in the line to make it work right?
I will be thankful for any help.
If the regulator is working correctly, the pressure should never go above
where it is set even if the water is not flowing. Maybe it is set wrong.
Set it to the minimum pressure, let the water flow and then stop the water.
Then adjust the regulator to the pressure you want. If the pressure drops
when the flow starts back up, the regulator is not rated for that flow. Or
it is bad.
Our whole house regulator located near the main valve shows ~80psi,
as soon as any tp is open gauge reading drops to ~60psi. It has been
like that since new. You think the regulator is defective????
It may be, but probably just under size. If it is set at 80 psi and never
goes above that , it is regulating. If it drops to 60 psi when the water is
flowing, I would say the regulator is not large enough to pass the required
flow. Or it could be the pipes are not large enough. It could also be
where you are measuring the pressure. If the gauge is far from the
regulator, that could be the normal pressure drop of the pipes for the flow
If you are getting enough flow from the pipes, I would not worry about that.
It is when the pressure goes over where you set the regulator without flow
you have a real problem with the regulator.
Your home should have a pressure regulator for the whole house that
limits the pressure inside the home to 50psi which is what Watts sets
their regulators to in the factory. If you have high water pressure in
your home, you will have all sorts of things blowing a gasket or valve.
You can go for a lower pressure if you like. ^_^
On Tuesday, July 23, 2013 4:13:38 PM UTC-4, The Daring Dufas wrote:
If the water pressure is extremely high, then the regulator
should be at the main service line for the house. I don't
see why anyone would put a regulator just on the fridge.
Plus, if it's a working regulator, it should be working for
the fridge, not working as described. If pressure regulators
didn't limit the pressure even when water is not being drawn,
they wouldn't be effective at preventing blowouts, etc.
On 7/23/2013 3:20 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I've done a lot of work on commercial refrigeration and commercial ice
machines. Some of the big ice machines had water cooled condensers and
high water pressure going into those beasts really screwed with the
operation of the heat exchanger control valves which followed the
pressure changes in the head pressure of the compressor. The service
station/convenience store/restaurant where the big water cooled ice
machine was installed kept having problems with valves all over the
store like in the kitchen and in the rest rooms where the Sloan flush
valves were blowing out. It turned out that the water pressure was 90psi
with spikes to 150psi. I found a 1" Watts pressure regulator in a wall
in the kitchen. After replacing it with a new one set for 50psi all
malfunctions with the ice machine and any sink or toilet ceased. One of
my other customers had a pizza place where the pressure/temperature
valve on the water heater kept running. It was a bad regulator for the
whole little shopping strip with several stores and offices. A 2&1/2"
watts regulator needed replacing and that was a fun job but it fixed all
the problems in the little shopping strip. A sure sign of too much water
pressure in a home is the T/P safety valve
on a water heater that constantly leaks. I can't crawl under houses like
I used to but that's often where the fracking pressure regulator is
located. Every homeowner should have an inexpensive water pressure
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Meh, the last house I had had about 80 PSI water pressure and I had zero
problems save for a T/P valve that failed (but the water heater was 18
years old, replacement worked fine)
Everyone said that I needed a pressure regulator but I wasn't inclined
to put one in, because the shower was so fabulous.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Well Nate, I believe you were lucky except for the T/P valve. I once
traveled a bit to run service calls around the Southeast and I carried
my own shower head that I had drilled out the darn EPA mandated flow
restrictor. I even had Allen wrenches to loosen the locking screws and
pipe wrenches plus adjustable wrenches to remove the motel shower heads
so I could get a dang blasted SHOWER! ^_^
The spec writer was probably referring to the gauge housing and lens.
It's obvious that the threaded inlet and hose adapter are brass or
something metal that looks like it. I like a plastic housing and lens
because it doesn't break if tossed into a tool bag containing a pipe
wrench or two. ^_^
On 7/23/2013 3:20 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Well, if you consider I have lived here for 15 years with no
problems, and then think of the cost of having a whole house regulator
installed compared to the cost of installing a small one myself just
for the refrigerator you might understand it.
Why? This is the first problem I have had. Frankly I think that
the filter manufacturer has a problem. The filter is rated for 100 psi.
If I was designing something rated at 100 psi I would design for
200 psi. That is normal design procedure, always over design.
Bill, do you know what your water pressure is in your home? With no
regulator, your water pressure will not stay constant. One customer of
mine had 90psi on average but got spikes up to 150psi which was breaking
a lot of stuff. Most homes that have a water pressure regulator
installed don't have the outdoor spigots attached to the regulator and
they get full pressure. You can check the pressure at an outdoor faucet
then check it at the cold water washing machine faucet. Most modern
homes will have a regulated water pressure that will be 40-60psi inside
the home. If your water pressure is above 70psi you should be concerned
and have a plumber check it out. ^_^
Sounds right, to me. He totally needs a regulator.
OTOH, he could use a garden hose, and water the neighbors flowers, three
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
On 7/24/2013 10:18 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
Is the water filter in the fridge still "popping"?
How many "things" (refrigerators, washing machines, dish washers, faucets,
etc., etc.) draw their water supply through your new pressure regulator?
What is the regulator's output pressure? A screw-on pressure gauge should
cost around $12 to $15 at Home Depot.
The regulator may actually be regulating. If it is regulating the water
pressure for the entire house it may be designed to have an output pressure
as high as 80 psi or maybe even higher. (Street pressure may be over 150
psi.) The "nice low pressure when the water is running" may be caused by
under-sized pipes, partially clogged pipes, or whatever.
Again, is the water filter in the fridge still "popping"? Please post back
if it is.
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