Looking for this chain saw sharpener - Italian made....

Nov 07, 2005 6 Replies

An electric chainsaw sharpener. I was recommended one from a tree guy, he told me it cost around $300 and works very well (His chains were very sharp indeed!)



Anyone know the brand name of this machine?



Thanks!



Dean


This was too easy. Thanks Google.

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Charlie

Might make sense for professional, who's going to sharpen chain off the bar. Lots of chains.

For home use, this file-guide has worked great for me for ~25 yrs-

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Fringe-benefits: works out in the woods, is not inclined to removing significant fraction of cutter, and works on mounted chain (for lack of better phrase.)

J

Charlie - is that the Italian one?

J - I have a files, I use them all the time. Problem is when I hit a metal object buried within a tree, its a LOT of work to file it down to sharp again after that. And to be honest, the chains I looked at this weekend from this guy with the machine, they were much much sharper than I can get them with a file.

I have fond that aDremel tool works real well with the correct diameter grinder. My chains lke 5/32".

If you want to use it in the woods, get one of the rechargeable / battery powered Dremel type tools.

Me, I just always go to the woods with 3 extra chains, pre sharpened at the workbench before I left.

For me, much quicker and easier to change out a chain on site than go through thechassle of sharpening a mounted chain.

YMMV.

for $300 it should work well, are you planning on going into the chainsaw sharpening business? That what a $300 machine is for. Do you have any idea how many chains you can buy for $300. Minimum of

  1. How about 0 worth of bulk chain and worth of tools for about 40 changes.

Instead of a $300 chain sharpener, just throw away the dull one and buy a new one. Or, you could be economical and buy a $50-$60 motorized sharpener for the homeowner or spend $12 for a hand operated sharpener or $5 for the guide that fits on a file.

Why should I not buy one? You think I'm going to throw away chains after they are blunt?

The point is, I do sharpen then in the field, but the wheel does a better job. Especially if one hits a steel rebar or a SS spoon or something else that beats the F out of the chain.

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