I just bought WS3000, haven't even plugged it in yet, maybe this weekend.
Anyway, I was looking at the WSSA0002780 Belt Sharpening Attachment that can be used to sharpen knifes. I've been hand sharpening all my knifes with the Lansky System for decades. I would mind going with a power method.
Is the attachment for the WS3000 worth the $55-$60 or is there a better alternative?
Thanks.
I believe I recently posted a review on the WS3000 and I'm quite enjoying it. I have all my chisels "scary sharp" and also my 3 planes that were previously rarely used due to their dullness.
My buddy who is an avid hunter and knife guy got the original, stand alone, Work Sharp knife sharpener and he absolutely love the thing. He swears by it.
So if you already have the 3000 and the attachment is less than the stand alone and works the same, I'd say it's a no-brainer. Get it. You'll like it.
I am a certified knife nut. I obsess over sharpening, steels, designs, erg onomics, lock designs, usability... you know, all the normal stuff someone with a problem might do. I have carried knives now all the time for about 5
5 years.I started on whetstones. This was OK as all my knives were soft carbon stee l, so they sharpened right up. Somewhere in the 80s I noticed that the newe r knives I was buying had harder steels, and it was harder (took longer) fo r me to edge them properly. So I bought a Lansky as well, and it has been a helluva utility. Proper bevels, adjustable bevels for specific steels, and with he sapphire stone even polished edges.
I have a lot of larger work knives though, and they don't play well with th e Lansky. And on the side, I started a very small sharpening business to t rade services for goods. I needed something better than my Lansky and diam ond rods as the knives I was getting were TRASHED.
So on Bladeforums, I saw several reviews of the Worksharp system(s) and wa ited to buy one until I had enough business to buy the one I wanted, the Ke n Onion edition as recommended by my compatriots on Bladeforums. I wish I had bought this sharpener for my own use years ago.
It easily sharpens just about any knife with a blade, even recurves. The b elts last very, very well, and the edges are fantastic. Watch the video an d follow the instructions carefully and you will cut your sharpening time d own to nothing. No knife will be safe! Watch out kitchen knives!
I would make a suggestion, though. It seems the boys on BF tried the knife attachment and didn't think much of it. It worked, but didn't have a real solid feel. And now, pricing is much closer on the attachment vs. the ori ginal Worksharp for knives machine. Here is the attachment:
and here is the free standing machine with its own motor:
The free standing machine is actually $10 less. There are some differences. The free standing machine uses 1/2" belts as it has for many, many years. It is a solid base machine with a convenient trigger for use. It does no t dial in the more acute sharpening angles that the attachment does.
The attachment uses 3/4" belts, and will do more acute angles when sharpeni ng.
I have the free standing model myself, and take it with me from time to tim e in a carry bag with extra belts. Amazing how many friends you make when you can put an edge on a knife for a guy.
I even sharpen knives for the Benchmade knife dealer here in town!
I am sure it will be great whatever decision you make.
Robert
rgonomics, lock designs, usability... you know, all the normal stuff someon e with a problem might do. I have carried knives now all the time for about 55 years.
eel, so they sharpened right up. Somewhere in the 80s I noticed that the ne wer knives I was buying had harder steels, and it was harder (took longer) for me to edge them properly. So I bought a Lansky as well, and it has been a helluva utility. Proper bevels, adjustable bevels for specific steels, a nd with he sapphire stone even polished edges.
the Lansky. And on the side, I started a very small sharpening business to trade services for goods. I needed something better than my Lansky and di amond rods as the knives I was getting were TRASHED.
waited to buy one until I had enough business to buy the one I wanted, the Ken Onion edition as recommended by my compatriots on Bladeforums. I wish I had bought this sharpener for my own use years ago.
belts last very, very well, and the edges are fantastic. Watch the video and follow the instructions carefully and you will cut your sharpening time down to nothing. No knife will be safe! Watch out kitchen knives!
fe attachment and didn't think much of it. It worked, but didn't have a re al solid feel. And now, pricing is much closer on the attachment vs. the o riginal Worksharp for knives machine. Here is the attachment:
s. The free standing machine uses 1/2" belts as it has for many, many year s. It is a solid base machine with a convenient trigger for use. It does not dial in the more acute sharpening angles that the attachment does.
ime in a carry bag with extra belts. Amazing how many friends you make whe n you can put an edge on a knife for a guy.
Thank you for that detailed response, but we seem to be talking about 2 dif ferent attachments. I was asking about the knife sharpening attachment for the WS3
000, the one shown on the top of the WS3000 here:It's actually $10 less than the stand alone Work-Sharp knife sharpener.
Are you familiar with that attachment?
I have the Ken Onion version myself too. And I have the WS3000. IMHO the add on unit for the WS3000 would be awkward to use, odd 90 degree angle, vertical vs horizontal.
If it were me and I sharpened a lot of knives, I would certainly want a dedicated machine with a non-awkward angle. Any time you have to put on or take off attachments, that can be the difference between doing it and not doing it.
Given that the stand-alone is almost the same price *and* portable/handheld, it's probably worth it to anyone with a lot of knives.
Yes, and although they are still for sale, they are discontinued. A quick call to Worksharp (go ahead... gimme a chance to talk knives!) verified tha t it wasn't selling, therefore, discontinued. I have seen them in use and they are quite awkward, and require that for sharpening that you move the m achine to the edge of the table, nearly hanging off the edge to be able to move the knife across the belts. And they don't give a satisfactory edge at the end of the process. Sometimes tool attachments are no more than aftert houghts, and perform as such.
This one is now their go to, the original machine:
It turns out a great edge, and since they dropped the attachment to the 300
0, this is their recommended sharpener from their product line. They dropp ed the price, too. At $70 for this machine, it's a steal. Multiple angles for blade bevels on knives, and it can sharpen all kinds of other tools, t oo. Check out the video on the Amazon link.Robert
Exactly!
Didn't you get Brian the original Worksharp with the 1/2" belts?
Robert
k call to Worksharp (go ahead... gimme a chance to talk knives!) verified t hat it wasn't selling, therefore, discontinued. I have seen them in use an d they are quite awkward, and require that for sharpening that you move the machine to the edge of the table, nearly hanging off the edge to be able t o move the knife across the belts. And they don't give a satisfactory edge at the end of the process. Sometimes tool attachments are no more than afte rthoughts, and perform as such.
JBAJV
000, this is their recommended sharpener from their product line. They dro pped the price, too. At $70 for this machine, it's a steal. Multiple angl es for blade bevels on knives, and it can sharpen all kinds of other tools, too. Check out the video on the Amazon link.Thanks to all. I'm glad I asked before I dropped the "big bucks". ;-)
The standalone tool it shall be.
Yes I got him the original, I'm clueless what size the belts are. ;~0
DerbyDad03 was heard to mutter:
Saw it in a demo, tried it and don't care for it.
I've studied Medievil arms, swordsmithing, metalurgy and more. Probably own and carry more knives than necessary, but I'm also a collector. I restore knives and swords of all shapes and sizes. I even do some shields but prefer edged things.
As many have, I started with Arkansas stones. Have tried almost everthing on the market (except Edge Pro Apex ...too damn expensive) and found nothing I liked. I have a couple Spyderco stones, sandpaper, and both store bought and homemade honing rigs.
If the edge is bad, chipped or otherwise damaged, I use diamond stones to start a new profile. I then move on to the Spyderco stones or sandpaper, depending on what it is I am sharpening. All get a final honing of a couple flavors. Done.
I recently restored an antique German Solingen and staghorn carving set. Great steel with all silver bolsters, caps, and guards. The owner was floored at the results. Took weeks to restore the staghorn handles as they were badly dried out and in need of long spa baths.
I love knives, swords, axes and anything edged. I love the history, the creation, the design and function. I also love restoring things. When I get the chance to put those two things together, I have a blast. I only go to power tools when there is no other option. Pretty much these days that is a buffing wheel.
All my EDCs are kept super-sharp. You can never over-hone.
That's my personal 2 cents for me. For you, get whatever works to keep your tools sharp and in use. Tools should never be left idle.
many better alternatives but since it is your money i say buy it and do a review and monetize it on youtube
did not know that staghorn could be restored is it just a water bath or are other ingredients involved
i think you are right but then have you seen those videos with sparks flying
some people equate more sparks with more sharper
have seen it with things like shovels which is no big deal but i cringe a little when i see lathe gouges or fine chisels throwing sparks
Electric Comet was heard to mutter:
Horn dries out over time, especially if it is stored in a very dry area. The kit I restored had three stag handles that was showing tiny cracks and holes and it lost it's luster. Soaking them stops the shrinkage, even brings them back some, and restores the luster. Usually something that prbably should be done every five years or as it starts to show. It's often hard to tell until you see the difference side by side. A simple mineral oil soak works well.
Cringe indeed. Temper! Temper! Temper! Ouch.
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