I have an old (but well respected) Imperial 21 Dishwasher and I think that the Jet-Dry system is plugged up. The liquid level has not changed in a long time.
I don't know how and where it dispenses the Jet-Dry so I cannot figure out how to troubleshoot it. I only know where to fill it up.
Can someone fill in the gaps?? Thx,
Larry Bb
I have a 15 year old K-A Monterrey 21. The rinse agent plug is on the left side of the door and the reservoir I believe is in the door and is carried into the bottom panel in a 1/4 inch black rubber tube which might just barely be visable when you have the door half ajar if you look on or around the left corning. I'm guessing you'll have to take the bottom panel off and maybe the door too. $50-$100 bucks if a serviceman does it though.
On the Imperial 12 the rinse agent plug is,when facing the dishwasher) on the left side of the inside of face of the door. Using a mirror and a flashlight, I couldn't see any hose extending to the bottom of the door assembly when viewed from the bottom of the door.
If I remove the inside door face, will the spring tension of the hinges or the detergent reservoirs (and of the gaskets) be a problem??
Thanks, LarryB
The marketing names printed on the front of appliances means very little (if anything at all). The only *real* way to identify the appliance you have is with the complete model number off the model and serial number tag.
You can find tips for locating the model number tag on your appliances in the 'Repair Parts' section of my site linked below.
Probably... well if not the removal, the attempt will likely be problematic anyway.
To access the insides of a dishwasher's door, usually just the *outer* door panel comes off with the rest of the door remaining on the machine. The rinse aid (and detergent for that matter) is usually either released by a solenoid or bimetal.
JFYI
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
Hey Larry,
The *outer* door panel comes off to access this. Just open the door and remove the 3 lower phillips screws (while supporting it with your knee) that screw into the outer panel, and it'll come right off. This will expose the RA and deterg dispenser assy's.
Some of these dispensed RA back out the fill port. Others (KDS-16,
17, 18) had separate inlet and outlet. I don't recall which one your '21 used, but it sounds like it may have been the 'one-holer'.Look for simple things first - wires burnt/broken off, etc. Your detergent dispenser was somewhat famous for burning its 3/16" terminals off.
With the age of this machine, don't spend a lot of $ on the RA dispenser; just hang the Jet-Dry solids on the upper shelf to accomplish basically the same thing. I'm assuming you *need* the rinse aid. Depending on your water quality, you may not.
Hope that's of some help.
God bless,
Dave Harnish Dave's Repair Service New Albany, PA snipped-for-privacy@sosbbs.com
570-363-2404I'm a 30-year pro appliance technician, and love sharing what I've learned - in a FREE Monthly Appliance Tips Newsletter:
Acts 4:12
Thanks, guys. I will attempt an ad-hoc fact finding committee (of one) in the morning and get back with you and my venerable "one-holer".
LarryB
Well, it turns out to be a "one-holer" with a bimetal stip inside. I cleaned out the delivery port (some gunk in there) and cleaned the plunger. The wires and the bimetal strip look like new. If it still malfunctions, can I assume that it is the timer??
Thanks, Larry
Apparently, the dispenser is still not working even though I have cleaned it out and inspected it. The bimetal strip looks perfect. Can I apply 120vac to the two connection tabs on the bimetal strip in order to test it??
Looks can be deceiving.
No! You'll blow a fuse or burn it out (or both). They are usually connected in series with something else, either the heater element or motor. Check the unit's wiring diagram.
JMO
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
malfunctions, can I
(KDS-16,
dishwasher)
Hi Dan, thanks. So, in that case, I should remove the cover and check for voltage by metering vac to ground during the cycle. Right? Do you in which part of the cycle the RA operates?
Thanks, Larry
That *might* tell you if it was getting voltage but not necessarily the proper amperage for it to function. I'm afraid I do not know what that aperage reading should be on whichever model you have, sorry. A simple continuity test can tell if it is open or not, a sure sign of failure.
No I don't but it should be able to be deduced by looking at the wiring diagram, seeing what component it is connected in series to (likely the heater element) and then checking the timer 'timing chart' on the wiring diagram to see at what point that component is powered.
BTW. I don't think I've ever seen where you've posted the *model number* of your dishwasher. You can find tips for locating the model number tag on your appliances in the 'Repair Parts' section of my site linked below.
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
inside.
plunger.
which
Dishwasher
Hi Dan, I don't have a timing chart but the bimetal strip is in series (along with detergent holders and other devices in parallel) with the Pump Motor. The RA has its own timer point.
The model is KDI-21 and was made when Hobart still owned it.
The bimetal strip really does look perfect and it is a solid piece of metal. It gets voltage (though amerage is unknown). I don't know if it discolors with time but now I wonder if it has ever worked (my wife's usual dept.).
Is it possible to visually inspect the contacts on the timer?
Larry
Hi Dan, I put my ammeter in series with one of the leads to the RA and in the final rinse cycle it drew 50mA for about 4 seconds. Should I be able to physically feel it snap or does the bimetal strip actuate in a "soft" way? Can I assume that the case for it should at least get hot? Thx
Lar
I would have thought that it would take longer than that to trip a bimetal. But the only way to know for sure would be checking the timer's timing chart.
Al least move enough to trigger the dispenser.
Yes they do, don't try to touch it when or after being energized!
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
Is it possible to visibly inspect the timer contacts??
Thx, Lar
I don't know what make or design of timer was used on that model originally. Some timers designs had access panels on them which could be removed to view the internals without dismantling the whole timer (not a good thing to do BTW), others did not.
BTW. If the timer is the problem, a new one is not available. You'd have to have the original rebuilt in that case.
Dan O.
- Appliance411.com
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