KitchenAid dishwasher heating element

[billccm]

Hello All:

I have a six year old KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDR01TJBL0, serial FL5125226.

It is a very mediocre product, but that is a subject for another day.

What I am experiencing is flaking of black, crusty coatings from the heating element. It seems to be cracking off and blasting itself throughout the dishwasher.

I have researched this issue, and it seems that the 'round' elements are the issue, and Whirlpool has an upgrade kit.

So, kind experts, is this all I need to fix my problem? Is it a job I can tackle in a Saturday afternoon, or shall I call a service company?

Finally, do you recommend that I cut my loss on this very mediocre product and invest in a new Bosch dishwasher?

Sincere thanks for your time in replying, and have a nice day,

Bill

[Edwin Pawlowski]

I'm not sure why you consider the KA to be mediocre. Mine is excellent and I'd buy another in a second. Dishes come out sparkling. Do you have extremely hard water? Use a rinse aid? Hot enough water?

Anyhow, replacing the element is a good Saturday job. The hardest part is contorting yourself around the appliance as you get older. I've never heard of flaking elements, but I guess it is possible.

As for getting a Bosch, they have been lambasted on this group for the frequency of repairs. My local dealer will get you one, but no longer has them in the showroom because they are the cause of too many service calls.

[Red Green]

billccm wrote in news: [e-mail]:

The upgrade kit is available for 59.75 from RepairClinic.com.

I just did mine a month ago or so. It's called an upgrade kit because it comes with the heating element and a new electronic control. The EC and new element are matched and must be replaced together.

Here are all your Whirlpool documents like parts diagrams:

Your electrical tech sheet should be behind the kickplate.

The heater element nuts are probably way in the back. Because of the pumps and no clearance, you will probably have to pull the dishwasher out to get at the element nuts from underneath. This means disconnecting the water supply line. When you pull the kickplate off the connection is probably right in front. If you're lucky, it has just a flex hose. Look under the sink and see what's connected to the shutoff. If it has soft copper tubing as a supply, it's connected with a compression fitting. This means you have to cut a few inches off the tubing and put a new compression ring.

You probably have to disconnect the power wire from the dishwasher to slide it out. Should connect right behind the kickplate.

All sounds worse when written but at least you know what you might have to do up front. If you're handy you can do it.

If you really want to finish the job, pull out the chopper and clean the screen. It can be a bit tricky to get back in seated. Need to compress the spring to slide it back in. Clean out all the water holes in the various spray arms.

REMEMBER: First kill the power at the breaker. Turn off the water at the valve under the sink.

[Red Green]

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:whhwj.13949$ [e-mail]:

What I'm picturing is like the tip of a soldering iron that get the black flake crud and you have to clean it.

[Red Green]

Red Green wrote in news:Xns9A4ED41C24E98RedGreen@216.196.97.136:

p.s. If you can't find your tech sheet and need it I put a copy here:

[billccm]

.196.97.136:

Hey, thank you for the help! I have ordered the part and will tackle this next weekend.

The crud seems to be teflon type coating that is flaking off. Underneath the coating is a rusting 'calrod' heating element.

I have cleaned the chopper several times, and know what you are talking about.

I had an old GE Potscrubber dishwasher that cleaned everything so well. I really wish I had repaired that unit rather than replaced it with this $900 KitchenAid. It barely cleans anything on the top shelf, and the repair guys just gave up after replacement of the motor/pump and circuit boards.

Thank you again for your time in replying, and have a nice day, Bill

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Did they replace or clean the arm? Check to see it is getting proper flow? As I stated, mine does a perfect job on both racks so you have a problem and I'm sure it is fixable. Glassware, especially sparkles when I take it out. IMO, it is the perfect machine. Check out that spray arm.

[Red Green]

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:Vkrwj.10469$ [e-mail]:

Ditto on that spray arm advice.

I prodded around the holes with a dental pick. Loosened stuff. Put shop vac on it. When done, put sink sprayer in the feed and water flowed out freely. Didn't do that before. Too cold out to use outdoor hose.

[billccm]

Hello All:

Well, I finished the job today, but need to let you in on my troubles.

I pulled the dishwasher, swapped the element and circuit board, and reinstalled in less than 30 minutes.

Pushed the 'NORMAL' button, then 'START'.

Panel lights, but nothing happens. No water flow-NOTHING.

I take the panel off; check all connections. Ohm out the door switch. Reassemble.

Pushed the 'NORMAL' button, then 'START'.

Panel lights, but nothing happens. No water flow-NOTHING.

I noticed a small piece of plastic near the door latch handle. I pull it out. It is a piece of plastic boss screw mount from the front panel.

Dishwasher starts and runs.

This piece was jamming up the door switch.

Now, a few questions:

1) The dishwasher runs LONGER now than before. It also fills funny in that some water will fill, then purge, then fill, and run. I assume this is the new program, and is normal?

2) Do I (or should I) order a new console assembly (part number

8269945)?

Thanks again for your help and support!

Take care,

Bill