I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a couple
inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior. The
particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of the
door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly should
have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if I drill
holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that will be
strong enough. Thoughts?
Here is the door for reference:
Ouch! That is an expensive mistake. If you saved the piece you cut
off, you could use a strong, resin type wood glue and try to glue it
back in place. For additional strength you could glue dowels and or
biscuits into both pieces before assembling.
Posting a few pictures of what you are dealing with would probably
help the group, help you.
Cut off that much more that the present cutoff gives correct overall
height. Glue that back to the top; using some biscuits or dowels for
some extra glue surface area wouldn't hurt.
Or, just rip the hardwood off the cutoff and glue it on where it was and
trim the bottom for the height.
Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.
Better be a big router ... at least 1/2" collet , and if I were doing
this I'd probably hog most of it out with a circular saw and just finish
the slot with the router . At a minimum a couple of 2x4's clamped on to
give the saw and router bases some stability . The OP might be able to
clean the slot up to the outer veneer layers , clean up the wood strip
he cut off and glue it back in . I've done this with hollow core doors
with good results .
On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 8:29:14 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.
Multiple shallow passes with a 2" cut length straight bit will get the job done, assuming he
actually needs the full 2". There are 1.5" cut lengths also. I recently bought a 5/8" bit with
a 1.5" cut length to route out a 3/4" recess for a deck of cards in a cribbage board I made.
With the 1/2" template for the recess, I needed at least 1.25".
I would expand on your 2x4 support idea and build a jig with a straight edge for the router to
On Wed, 05 Jul 2017 12:09:34 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Hey, I simply suggested that he install dowels and use glue. It
doesn't really matter, it appears the OP has vanished and I doubt he
has the jig required to accurately install dowels, let alone cut a
3/4" slot and install a spline.
On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 12:15:03 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
17 hours since the first post and you assume he's vanished? Maybe he has a job
that doesn't allow him to post all day.
Why do you doubt that he can do the work? If he doesn't have a doweling jig, he can buy
one for for $30-$90 depending on how much he plans to use it in the future. If he
doesn't have a router, he can buy one. It's an extremely useful tool. I have 3. If he's
never cut a slot and/or installed a spline, does that mean he'll never be able to?
Other than the fact that he screwed up the first cut (who hasn't?) how are you able to
access his skill-set, or more importantly, his ability to learn? I've been playing around
with home repair and woodworking for many years and I'm still learning new stuff. That's
one of the reasons I do it. I like the journey. Apparently, the OP does too since he took
it upon himself to cut the door in the first place.
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 09:43:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
Oh good, the first pissing contest of the day, whoo-hoo.
Yes, I suspect he has vanished, you can speculate until the cows come
home, but as of now, he has not returned.
As for all your other points, yes, some people are capable of learning
new things and buying all kinds of tools, etc. However, if he had the
motivation required, it is my opinion he would have been participating
in the discussion beyond the initial post and sooner than this point
in time. It seems many people who post through the home owners hub,
Also, the idea of cutting a slot and installing a spline seems
needlessly complicated when one can install dowels using a jig, a
pencil, a drill, a mallet and some glue. The foundational principles
of proper engineering include keeping solutions as simple as possible
while attaining the desired end result.
Lastly, considering the door is 1.38 inches thick, with masonite outer
cladding and a particle board inner core, cutting a 3/4" slot in the
inner core would either eliminate the particle board or dramatically
weaken it. Not only does a long slot seem pointless, but it would
likely further damage the remaining structural integrity of that end
of the door. Removing as little material as possible seems to be the
most logical approach when trying repair this kind of a cluster-fuck.
Did I satisfy your need for pissing contest? I have horses to feed and
a solar array to pressure wash.
On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:20:04 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.
Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,
I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one
from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't
create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the
As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional
repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face
it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.
On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:37:34 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
Not sure what the need for accuracy is. If he clamps part A to part B
and drills a 3" deep hole, even if the hole is at an angle, it
doesn't matter, the dowel will still go in, no? Plus you have construction
adhesive/glue between the two also. And I'd make sure the bracket
screws are long enough to go through both parts too.
I'd think he has a higher chance than that. But agree I'd keep it
simple and cheap.
I am just not sure how he would clamp the two pieces together,
securely, at the end of a 7 foot door. Yeah, I guess he could use
pipe clamps or ratcheting straps, but somehow, I don't think that
would be as easy as just using the jig. Maybe you are right, but with
all of the furniture I have built over the years, freehand drilling of
dowel holes never produced flush joined edges.
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