I messed up. Now I need to screw into particle board.

Oh good, the first pissing contest of the day, whoo-hoo.

Yes, I suspect he has vanished, you can speculate until the cows come home, but as of now, he has not returned.

As for all your other points, yes, some people are capable of learning new things and buying all kinds of tools, etc. However, if he had the motivation required, it is my opinion he would have been participating in the discussion beyond the initial post and sooner than this point in time. It seems many people who post through the home owners hub, never follow-up.

Also, the idea of cutting a slot and installing a spline seems needlessly complicated when one can install dowels using a jig, a pencil, a drill, a mallet and some glue. The foundational principles of proper engineering include keeping solutions as simple as possible while attaining the desired end result.

Lastly, considering the door is 1.38 inches thick, with masonite outer cladding and a particle board inner core, cutting a 3/4" slot in the inner core would either eliminate the particle board or dramatically weaken it. Not only does a long slot seem pointless, but it would likely further damage the remaining structural integrity of that end of the door. Removing as little material as possible seems to be the most logical approach when trying repair this kind of a cluster-f*ck.

Did I satisfy your need for pissing contest? I have horses to feed and a solar array to pressure wash.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman
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I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes, using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original piece that he cut off.

Reply to
trader_4

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes, I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the masonite.

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As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

CORRECTION: "Without expending..."

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

Not sure what the need for accuracy is. If he clamps part A to part B and drills a 3" deep hole, even if the hole is at an angle, it doesn't matter, the dowel will still go in, no? Plus you have construction adhesive/glue between the two also. And I'd make sure the bracket screws are long enough to go through both parts too.

I'd think he has a higher chance than that. But agree I'd keep it simple and cheap.

Reply to
trader_4

I am just not sure how he would clamp the two pieces together, securely, at the end of a 7 foot door. Yeah, I guess he could use pipe clamps or ratcheting straps, but somehow, I don't think that would be as easy as just using the jig. Maybe you are right, but with all of the furniture I have built over the years, freehand drilling of dowel holes never produced flush joined edges.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

You may be right too, IDK. I was thinking in terms of keeping the two pieces aligned horizontally while he drills it, but you're right, he also needs to pull it together top to bottom when gluing. Maybe bar/wood clamps to hold it side to side, then your ratcheting straps to bind it vertically.

As usual, here we are doing all the work, with no more participation from the OP, which could narrow the discussion and options.

Reply to
trader_4

Didn't say or didn't say it accurately enough for you? Go back and read the OP.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

There's no need for pipe clamps or ratcheting straps. It can all be done with a few bar clamps and some scrap stock. I'm not saying the gluing the piece back is a good idea, but it's not that hard to make a glue up jig.

Sandwich the door between 2 pieces of stock that span the joint to keep the cutoff flush with the faces of the door. The stock should extend almost to the top of what will be the finished door in order to ensure perfect alignment of the faces. Slip wax paper between the door and the alignment pieces to prevent the squeeze out from contacting them. Clamp the alignment pieces tightly to the door.

Cut a piece of stock that is as wide as the door plus the 2 alignment pieces. Apply glue and slip the cutoff between the 2 alignment pieces. Lightly clamp the alignment pieces to the cutoff, light enough to allow it to move downward. Lay the 3rd piece across the top of the cutoff and clamp it to the *bottom* of the alignment pieces (below the joint).

Tighten the alignment/cutoff clamps.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Sure, if one wants to make a career out of the project. Seems much easier to use a dowel jig and cheap ratcheting strap tie-downs.

To each his own.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

Or, he could buy neither and fix it by cutting off some more then gluing/screwing a piece of hardwood to it thereby returning it to its former glory at virtually zero cost.

Reply to
dadiOH

What would he screw it to? The masonite or the particle board?

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

Apologize? For what? Being someone who does not employ diplomacy or courtesy in his written communications? Don't be silly, this is Usenet and you are who you are.

If you felt an apology were in order for the words you used, you would have apologized and the entire matter would have been closed.

When people communicate the way you have, it is as if they are hanging a sign around their necks saying: "I don't play well in the sandbox with others." That is fine, but as with Mr. Trump, don't be surprised when you reap what you sow.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

I would get a couple of 6 or 8 inch corner braces, bolt the rollers to the braces and screw the other leg of the braces to the side edges of the door. The edges should also have a hardwood insert.

Reply to
Ed60062

All this from the guy who said:

"Oh good, the first pissing contest of the day, whoo-hoo."

...snip...

"Did I satisfy your need for pissing contest?"

Sandbox? It sounds like you play in caged octagon. As soon as anyone questions your assumptions or points out an error, you go on the attack.

When I offered a clamping alternative for clamping something to a long object, and you shot that down too, totally missing the point as to why I brought up the method.

So much for playing nice.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

What masonite? The screws would go into the particle board to hold the new piece of hardwood while the glue dries..

Reply to
dadiOH

By now I think the OP has figured out that she can just use some 2-1/2" long #8 screws to fasten the rollers to the top of the door.

Reply to
Gene Yuss

Derby, I am sure that in your mind you have been unjustly chastised. The fact that you are attempting to play tit-for-tat, without examining the tat component, suggests you are not prone to introspection.

Before responding to you, through this silly-ass pissing contest, I re-read every word I wrote, several times. I accept fully responsibility for everything I have written both serious and facetious.

Let me suggest that you go back and not simply review what I have written, but take a close look at what you have written, and how you approached this discourse. Keep in mind, we are not either Vulcan's or computers and ask yourself if you bear any contextual culpability for what is rapidly becoming a very unproductive and tedious exchange.

If upon a modicum of introspection, you discover your own culpability, then take the lesson forward and let's just drop this entire exchange. The last word belongs to you as I have no desire to further singe your feathers.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

Yes, he could do that but the rollers wouldn't stay fastened very long. Running the screws into epoxy filled holes would help but is still less than a great solution.

Reply to
dadiOH

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