Want to repair my Granson's toy guitar which is coming apart.
"Gentle" is not his middlename.
Is Titebond II still about the "best" glue to use for something like
this ? Or,...?
Epoxy better ?
BTW: How well does epoxy usually work on wood ?
Any rules of when to use it on wood, and when not ?
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I'm sure others will correct me, but....
I've had some success with gorilla glue
on wood repairs. I've had to wet the
wood, apply, clamp, and wipe the excess
ooze in about five or ten minutes. Leave
the repair clamped over night.
The wood is cracked or separated in the middle of a piece of wood?
As opposed to two pieces of wood, maybe with glue still on them, being
I'm going to assume the first.
If it's the second with glue still on them, and you can't scrape off the
glue and rough up the wood a little bit, I wouldnt' call the pieces wood
anymore. The outer surface is more important than what's underneath
No. I wouldn't use that.
Who knows. I've always had fine results with white glue, Elmers usually
but some other brand when I found it in my brother's house.
And I've bought and used Titebond II when I heard it was v. good for
something that would get wet. Maybe it was outside. It was fine, but
I"m sure I'd already used Elmers for fence pickets that get rained on
and it was fine too.
Maybe some really hard wood would need something other than white but
that's just speculation.
I use Titebond for all carpentry and cabinet work,
with new wood. I like to use the non-waterproof
type, in case the work has to be disassembled for
For something old, other porous surfaces, or for
tropical hardwoods I like to use 5-minute epoxy. For
non-porous surfaces I use cyanoacrylate ("super glue"),
but that only works well when there's very good contact
and the materials are non-porous.
It depends, though, on what you're gluing. If you
have a large surface with a fresh break then Titebond
might work well. If you have very little surface then
an epoxy might be better.
FWIW, here's a work around for that.
When I was a photographer I also sold frames. Big frames, 16 x 20 - 40 x
60. I had no room to store moldings so I used a chop service...tell them
the size and thay chop the pieces on a guillotine, send them to you and you
The wood, of course, is porous; the miters were fairly close fitting and but
not very smooth. To get them smooth, I rubbed a piece of chalk over them,
gently blew off excess. When the CA is applied, it soaks into the chalk and
bonds it to the wood; the chalk is also now non-porous.
I used this technique on every frame I ever made over a 15 year period,
never used nails, none ever came apart.
If I wanted the repaired joint to be as invisible as possible, I'd use
white wood glue, like Elmer's or Weldbond. The advantage of white wood
glues is that they dry clear, and that makes for the most invisible
repairs. Clamp the joint tight, wipe up any white wood glue that oozes
out of the joint with a damp rag or sponge, and allow to cure.
If I wanted the strongest repair I could get, I would use LePage's PL
Premium construction adhesive. PL Premium now also comes in a high tack
variety that gives a better initial grab, but you still want to clamp
the joint tight as it cures. PL Premium is a moisture cure
polyurethane, and because there's always some moisture in wood, it works
particularily well on wood. To store a partially used tube of PL
Premium, just squeeze a little out so that you can grab onto something,
and store it in your freezer. When you want to use it again, take it
out of the freezer, put it in your caulking gun and apply pressure to
it. Then pull out the cured stuff at the end, and it should start to
flow again, but very slowly. Allow time for it to warm up, and it
should be ready to use again.
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