My GE Medallion dishwasher motor doesn't start when set to on. I close the door, I turn the timer knob to ON, then nothing happens.
The light comes on the front panel (interlock is working). I pulled the inside liner off, and pushed on the interlocks and saw the panel light come on and off. I checked voltage across the timer motor, and it's there when the interlock is closed.
Any suggestions?
Thanks, Mark.
Update: There's no power across one of the interlocks ( one closest to the top latch)
Mark.
Okay, no diagram on panel, or inside of liner (too bad). Might be on back of washer somewhere. Will check. Also, appears no power at motor lines when timer rotated completely and interlocks engaged (figured out why no power across one of the interlocks... switched neutral... DOH!). Also, drain valve/solenoid not engaging through cycle of timer. I see a brown, bakelite cover over some electrical-like device. I'll pull the washer out and have a better look.
Thanks again, Mark.
Put AC directly to motor, and motor runs.
Started drawing out a schematic for it. 8 wires go up to Panel. There's a common wire to one side of Motor, one side of waste gate valve, and one side of water in valve (none of them work). So, tomorrow night, I draw out the Panel wiring.
Mark.
Hi,
Model#?
Door lock switchs, loose/burnt main power wire, broken wire in the door ( esp where it bends ), selector switchs, timer contact are some things that can stop the d/w from running.
The wiring diagram may help, it is usually folded up underneath behind the lower access panals.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
I had broken wire exactly around bend once. Tony
Hi,
Model#?
Door lock switchs, loose/burnt main power wire, broken wire in the door ( esp where it bends ), selector switchs, timer contact are some things that can stop the d/w from running.
The wiring diagram may help, it is usually folded up underneath behind the lower access panals.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
Sorry, Here's the Model # GMB4210KC119
Hi,
Yupper...the diagram should be tucked up underneath possibly between the plastic liner and metal plate near the motor and pump assy....that is assuming no one stole it :O
When you check for power make sure you "really" get 110-120 volts AC when you ask the d/w to work...a loose/bad nuetral will let a light work but may quit when asked to work hard ( fill/main motor ).
Once you find the diagrma you should be able to trace to see where the power is lost :)
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
Thanks everyone...
Turned out to be a bad (burned) contact switch on the controller. Got it refurbished for about 50 bucks. Been working fine ever since.
Mark.
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