Can't repair home office printer, so need a new one

Hmm...I really don't understand why you think a fax machine result isn't a digital copy that is somehow protected from unauthorized modification. A fax machine does NOT ensure authenticity. That was never the intention with the technology in the first place.

You can forge caller ID, and if good enough, even forge the sending phone number/fax header details. What you couldn't forge is the digital signature created with your actual private key. As your public key is mated to it and only you have the private one.

One could create new keys with your name on them, and 'sign' the document, but it won't authenticate on the receiving end if they already have your real public pgp key.

You could easily send a pdf that you took the time to digitally sign with your public key. ANY modifications to that file when checked against your published and known key will cause it to fail the digital signature check. Any attempt to swapout your signature for theirs will also fail, as your private key isn't known to them and couldn't be used to generate the digital authentication on your behalf.

If you want to take authentication seriously, that's one of the best methods of doing so. Include the fact you signed it with the email where it's attached. The recipient can confirm the digital signature hasn't been faked AND the attachment is what was signed by the real you. Quick and easy these days, too. They only need your legitimate public key; which they would have if you have done prior business with them. As, obviously, you sent it before hand.

If someone attempts to swap out your digital signature for another, it won't pass authentication because your private key isn't something anyone else would normally have and your signature is based on that key only. YOUR public key can be used to verify it, because it's mated to YOUR private key that only you have. So, your public key (that they do have) will not authenticate the signature if the signature is created by another private key that obviously doesn't belong to you.

And the recipient will know someone went the extra mile to try and pass something off as yours that wasn't actually from you.

If you want to provide authentication for something you sent, sign it with your valid digital signature using PGP. Altering the signature and/or the contents of the message and/or file attachment will fail the authentication when the recipient goes to verify it. Even if they go so far as to create their own public/private key trying to mimick yours, It still won't authenticate as coming from you because it wasn't generated with YOUR private key.

Reply to
Diesel
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That's very different than here (TN). As you can take spent electronics to a recycling center and they'll pay YOU for it. it's by weight though, so you'd want to have a truckload to justify the fuel spent. You don't get much $$$ per pound.

Reply to
Diesel

They took a loss when they sold you the printer itself. They have more in the printer than what you're paying for it. To makeup for the loss, the pricing for the ink is higher. Busineses don't stay in business long if they lose money on both ends of the deal.

Reply to
Diesel

The easiest way I've found to describe it is like a series of mini fuel injectors. Either on the bottom of the cartridge itself (if they have flexible mesh of fine wires) or it's external and makes use of a pump to feed the printhead assembly by extracting a small amount of ink from the 'tip' of the cartridge.

It applies a small amount of electric current at a particular spot in the cartridge to release a tiny droplet of ink (for those that do not have the fine wire tracing and flexible plastic; it's actually using a printhead assembly to accomplish the result.

As it does so, it's going to the far left/right (depending on printer) and running the bottom of the cartidge and/or printhead assembly underneath a fine 'scraping' piece to remove excess buildup on it. For many printers, what you're calling a printhead is actually the bottom of each cartridge. So on these printers, when you change the cartridge, you changed the 'print head' for that cartridge too.

Some epson printers have no actual print ability from the cartridge itself, they use a small pump instead to extract the ink to send to the 'printhead' assembly. Basically, if you look at the bottom of your ink cartridge and see no fine wire tracing but a single what you're calling a 'tip' it has an external printhead being fed by a small pump. The tip itself is the hole used to suck ink from the cartridge to deliver to the printhead assembly. This design has various pros and cons. Most notably, higher resolution print ability and more color mixing options.

Think, Epson photo print. The primary drawback to this design is at some point, the 'printhead' assembly will need to be cleaned thoroughly or replaced outright. And, again, depending on the printhead assembly module, it can be more costly to replace than the printer cost you. The ink can also dry up inside the tubing supplying the printhead assembly, and, sometimes they become clogged with the ink over time and are no longer able to deliver the ink to the printhead assembly reliably. When this happens, you can try to clean the tubes, but, more often than not; you'll be replacing them. This can also be more costly than the printer itself was when you purchased it.

The ink itself over time as it's scraped off the bottom of the cartridge and/or the printhead assembly will fill the reservoir where it's being stored. So, at some point, you will need to tear the printer down and scoop out the semi solid trash ink it piled up. If you don't, it's effectiveness is greatly diminished and it starts to leave the reservoir and go elsewhere in the printer; Making a mess internally.

As I wrote previously, the cleaning cycle varies from make/model and firmware version. As I'm sure you've noticed, short of cutting power to the printer itself (turning them off doesn't turn everything off anymore so than hitting the power button on a modern TV actually turns everything off) it's not really ever, entirely off (unless you physically disconnect it's power source) It's in a standby/sleep state.

Reply to
Diesel

One thing that nobody noticed is Muggles started the thread with a question. Then, without rading any of the responses, went out and bought a printer. Then she came back to read the thread.

Don.

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Reply to
Don Wiss

Interesting. I never knew about that. I just did a Google search for ---> crt tv copper deflection coil

Reply to
TomR

Huh? How do you know what I did before I bought my printer?

Reply to
Muggles

I just watched some of the YouTube videos and I checked out some of the other links.

Recycling the copper seems like a lot of work for not much copper. I think a rough estimate of the weight of the copper from the deflection coil is about 150 grams or about 0.33 pounds. I doubt that 1/3 lb of copper is worth much as scrap.

One of the videos also mention a degaussing wire around the edge of the video screen. I don't know what that would be worth.

I also remember from my younger days that CRT TV's have a dangerous high voltage charge in them that stays stored up and "hot" even with the TV off and unplugged. I do remember having to safely discharge that before working on the TV, but I didn't remember how.

Here are a couple of links that talk about that danger and how to safely do the discharge of the stored up high voltage:

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Reply to
TomR

Generally speaking, but not necessarily. A 1200dpi inkjet will definitely produce better print quality than a 600dpi or less laser.

It also depends what kind of ink. Pigmented ink makes better quality than dye based ink.

Reply to
clare

I'vce weighed the cartridges that come with several printers - alongside the "normal" retail cartridge and they generally do NOT weigh the same. - and the XL cartridge is generally (at least in the models I'm familiar with) EXACTLY the same as the standard but heavier (more ink) so your statement they are "full" really doesn'y mean anything. In my experience many "starters" are 259-300 page, regulars are 500-600 and XLs are 1200 pages. When I refill my 940 HPs they are closer to 2000 pages, so even the XL is not "full"

Reply to
clare

Currently about $2.36 per lb on the spot market here in Ontario. so on a big TV, about 4 oz each or roughly 50 cents.

Reply to
clare

ahh ... I don't have anything to weigh them with, and 300 pages seems pretty good for even a starter cartridge. I'll have to see if I can find out more info on it. Thanks!

Reply to
Muggles

For under $20 it almost doesn't make sense not to buy one of these:

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I use it for postage, cooking, and other stuff. Very handy.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

That's expensive and of dubious quality. A better choice is:

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Don.

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Reply to
Don Wiss

Which can mean using (and later throwing out) half as much paper. It's a feature I'd always look for.

I prefer laser printers over inkjet. One reason is that if you haven't used the printer for a few months, it still prints well (toner doesn't dry out or clog).

BTW, if you get toner on your clothes or anywhere else wash it with COLD water.

Reply to
Mark Lloyd
[snip]

On most modern equipment "off" is a lie. The switch may do nothing more than control the LED.

Reply to
Mark Lloyd

A laser printer may not do so well on glossy photo paper. It IS better on regular paper.

Reply to
Mark Lloyd
[snip]

I was there when a relative was having a TV (27-inch console) repaired. IIRC, they said the high voltage was about 36KV.

Reply to
Mark Lloyd

Have you ever tried one of the "dubious quality" ones. I have. Same one for at least 5 years. Never an issue.

Have you ever tested one of the "dubious quality" ones with verified weights as low as a couple of grams to it's max of 11 pounds? I have. (It's dead on across its entire range.)

Weighing ingredients is more accurate than measuring. It would make no sense for me to use a scale that I didn't know was accurate to weigh ingredients.

Unless you are a Prime member the Amazon one will cost you at least as much if not more than the "dubious quality" one, depending on shipping and tax. For me, it would be more even if I paid full price at HF, which I rarely do. (Yes, I added tax to the HF purchase). If I waited for a sale or used a 20% coupon, it would be cheaper still.

Tell me why the Ozeri is a "better choice"?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I have bought many things from Harbor Freight. Most are junk and do not last long. You must have been lucky.

The Ozeri is also accurate. My 50g, 100g and 500g test weights are all dead on. It measures to 1/100's of an ounce.

I am not a prime member, and I have never paid shipping. I simply wait until I have $49 worth of things to buy from Amazon. It doesn't take very long.

Don.

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Reply to
Don Wiss

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