Since there is no float, other than to prevent flooding, I assume the water fill is controlled by a timer.
Is the timer in the 752738 power module at the base or at the 746432 control unit at the door?
The dishwasher is overfilling and I need to change what is controlling the fill limit.
Thank you for any serious ideas.
The conclusion is specious; there's no "float" in most washing machines
yet they manage to have repeatable fill levels (regardless of whether they
have clothes in them at the time, or not!). I.e., the float is not sitting
out there for all to see! :>
Pull the dishwasher out so you can access the back/sides. You'll see a bit of
plumbing and an odd-shaped plastic "container" (sorry, I don't know how
else to describe it). Check it for crud, etc.
A quick glance at the drawings doesn't show the "container" I've
seen. On the models I've examined, there's an odd-shaped "reservoir"
of sorts with the float switch inside (i.e., wires and hoses going
to it -- I don't see anything with BOTH those sorts of things in
*If*, indeed, the fill is time based, an underfill means a dirty inlet filter
somewhere that is restricting the flow of water into the tub. Or, reduced
water pressure for some reason. An overfill is probably just a defective
fill valve (relatively inexpensive, easy repair).
There's nothing *you* are going to do to adjust a timer as it's
a piece of software, not a mechanism.
If you want to know for sure that it is time based, you could disconnect the
water line and listen to the water inlet valve and see when/if it "clicks
open" and then "clicks closed" (with NO water flowing through it to trip
Does it throw an error code?
That float is for to prevent flooding. It is on the bottom pan and only activates if the water does not shut-off and starts to flood. It is not utilized in the normal operation of the unit.
On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 11:36:10 PM UTC-8, Susan Bugher wrote:
On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 11:40:35 AM UTC-5, Molly Brown wrote:
The float switch in the diagram is outside the tub and below it? That
doesn't make sense. How would it work like that? If you said that the
float is positioned high so that water wouldn't normally trigger it,
that would make sense and then I could see that it's only an overflow
The pan is supposed to be mostly full of water when it's running.
If it's like the float switch on every other DW I've owned, it is
basically the reverse of the float switch on your sump pump. Hollow
plastic tube/column extending up from the bottom, the top of which is
above "flood level. Into this goes the float itself, a hollow cup with
a long plastic stem dropping down through the column. Mounted outside
the tub and below it is the switch which is controlled by the rise and
fall of the float.
On Tue, 29 Dec 2015 08:40:26 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
The first and maybe the second are reasons why there needs to be a
float to stop overflow, but not reasons why it couldn't also detect
normal water level.
AND WHY ARE TWO LEVELS NEEDED? Why isnt' the level for not
overflowing onto the floor the same level needed for operation?
Once they put a float in, they're going to use it for every purpose it
will work for. My clothes washing machine has 4 or 5 water levels
and the same float is used to regulate all of them, with just
different sets of contacts or something.
Dishwashers use much less water than a clothes washer, so it would be
absurd to use a timer to measure input, because water pressure varies
from city to city, house to house, and within a house based on what
else is on, washing a car, the sprinklers outside, someone filling a
bathtub. A float, which directly measures what is to be measured, is
the only reasonable way to control water level during operation.
That doens't mean the float itself is the problem, but if it leaked
and allowed water to get inside, that's bad. Or maybe it's
physically stuck and doesn't move well.
There doesn't seem to be an electriic switch on the same chart as the
float (though maybe they are on other pages) but if the float directly
controls a mechanical valve, maybe the valve is full of crud somehow
(unlikely) but more likely it might have a small stone from when
people outside worked on the pipes. Because the builder used the
wrong kind of the water mains here, we have leaks every 5 years, and
they warn us to flush our pipes to get the stones out. They mean for
us to use the sink, not the DW or CW.
This assumes there is an electric solenoid somewhere else, which turns
off the water for certain when the dw is not on. And I'm sure there
On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 1:35:39 AM UTC-5, Micky wrote:
One reason to have two would be that if one detects normal fill
and the other overfill, then two sensors would have to fail for
the unit to overflow onto the floor. With one float doing both,
if it gets stuck, no backup. But IDK how they typically do it
either, which is why I raised the question of how she's sure that
the float that's there is to detect overfill only. And I didn't
understand the answer.
I agree that I doubt they just time it either. But there are other ways
besides a float, could measure the flow rate, use an optical sensor, etc.
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