We want to re-paint a room. Walls are old plaster (presumably original,
so ~90 yo), with what looks like 3 layers of paint. Based on age, the
paint is likely oil-base. Some of the paint has pealed to bare plaster;
the rest seems well-bonded. So, primer has to bond to both plaster and
Question: is there a preferrable primer to use? Or ones to avoid?
| Question: is there a preferrable primer to use? Or ones to avoid?
I wouldn't prime it at all. If it's glossy you might
want to wash it with hot solution of TSP. Then
use some joint compound to even out the peeled
areas. I usually prime if I'm doing new drywall, but
not for small areas of joint compound. You can
just spot-prime the compound spots, if necessary,
with the finish paint. (Assuming you're using water-
base paint this time.)
| >REAL plaster walls? Redwood lath? Love it!
| Try not to get too excited. This is kind of old-school (1920's?) skim
| coat, about 1/4" thick. In the right light, the lath telegraphs
| through. (We prefer not to notice.)
I think it may depend on where one lives. I
deal with mostly horsehair plaster and lath. I
occasionally deal with plaster on concrete on
metal lath -- the stuff that came after horsehair.
That's much worse to work with. When I come
across drywall it's a treat. So much less dust
and work involved in the demo.
From the sounds of it you might want to
consider putting drywall over your walls.
(Which may be fairly easy or very involved,
depending on how you have to deal with
Try scraping off the paint and use a stone or metal wall scraper to get
the old paint off, then use driwall topping compound and a trowel to
smooth the wall.
| Try scraping off the paint and use a stone or metal wall scraper to get
| the old paint off, then use driwall topping compound and a trowel to
| smooth the wall.
Are you serious? He said most of it's stuck. What
you're proposing probably means several *days* of
scraping work, then skim coating the entire wall
with joint compound after getting it hacked up.
All for no good reason. Anyone who had to do such
a thing for some reason would be better off drywalling
| > Are you serious? He said most of it's stuck. What
| > you're proposing probably means several *days* of
| > scraping work, then skim coating the entire wall
| > with joint compound after getting it hacked up.
| > All for no good reason. Anyone who had to do such
| > a thing for some reason would be better off drywalling
| > over it.
| I never said it would be easy. Are you afraid of a little work? ^^
Because a job is difficult and strenuous
that makes it useful? You're not making
any sense. It's a cruel practical joke to
suggest what you suggested. Unless you
really don't know any better. In that case
you shouldn't be giving people advice.
If it were savable, yes. You don't see original redwood lath and
plaster very often. If it's crumbly and falling off, no.
There are other types of plaster and I'm assuming it's hardwall
plaster, not thinwall plaster.
Try the crap in my house, renovations are a pain in the ass, it is a
wire mesh lath with the plaster over the top of that. Gloves and the
right tools are a key for the parts of it I have redone, otherwise
I worked in California, so there are no basements to speak of, and most
of the interior plaster walls are 2'X4' 1/2" wall board with metal mesh
used in inside corners and fiberglass tape on joints. Gypsum plaster is
spread over that lath and when cured and dry, "puttycoat" is spread
over the gypsum resulting in a very hard wall. Thin wall is spread over
gypsum green board with fiberglass mesh tape on all joints and inside
corners resulting in a VERY HARD plaster wall to paint over. Sometimes
pigment is added to the mud so no painting is required.
Today, most homes are driwall and spray textured.
On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 11:00:30 AM UTC-5, Eagle wrote:
I have very similar walls in my 1956-era house in the northeast US. The
"2'X4' 1/2" wall board" that you mention is gypsum board, laid
perpendicular to the studs (i.e. horizontal).
The insides of the walls look similar to this, although my gypsum boards
are 6" (8"?) wide, not 2'. I'm not sure about the length. It's been a while
since I tore any walls down, so the exact width and length of the gypsum
board has been forgotten, but I'm confident that it is not 2', not even
My walls measure about 3/4" thick. The metal mesh in the corners and
at the ceiling junctions make certain types of repairs and/or renovations
a real PITA. Patches in the open field need to be shimmed out to become
flush with the rest of the wall/ceiling.
My house was built in 1952, the wire lathe is not just in the corners,
it extends floor to ceiling, wall to wall, the plaster is not in sheets,
it is all built up in several layers and hand applied. Any reno, causes
massive amounts of dust, and curse words.
On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 11:57:27 AM UTC-5, FrozenNorth wrote:
Ouch...I feel your pain.
I may not have been clear in my post. I have the paper covered gypsum boards
on the studs (~3/8") and then hand-layered plaster over that, to the tune
of another ~3/8". I actually like the slightly wavy surface of the plaster
walls and ceilings.
Mine is not all that wavy, while I hated tearing out parts of it for a
few jobs, new kitchen,bathroom and expanding the front hall closet, at
the same time it really made me admire the craftsmanship and skill that
must have been required to do it.
Any slob, including me can put up drywall, but this stuff took a lot of
skill to do. Even the lumber in my walls is actual rough cut 2x stock,
that actually measures 2 inches.
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