Who said Marples chisels are any good???

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or got hot during grinding, as should not happen...
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Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
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wouldn't they be discolored? I use to harden chisels for automotive use. Worked great; heat 'em and quench 'em in oil.
dave
Juergen Hannappel wrote:

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Not necessarily, softening starts well before coloring (depending on the steel type, of course).

But makes then brittle, you should temper them after that, there are lots of web sites that tell you how. What do you use to heat them up?
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a torch. I still have those chisels. they are hard; not brittle, tough as a proverbial nail.
dave
Juergen Hannappel wrote:

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Juergen Hannappel wrote...

They might not be discolored because oxidation colors are easily removed by abrasion -- grinding, polishing, honing or other normal tool finishing practices. They may also have been tempered in a controlled environment (inert atmosphere or vacuum) that prevents the oxidation that causes the coloring.
However, if heated in air, the tool steel used in Marples chisels will certainly discolor before it softens beyond its intended use hardness. In fact, it discolors if heated to its normal tempering temperature in an oxygen-bearing atmosphere.
Jim
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This is really bumming me out. My Marples chisels ARE my good chisels. I bought them to use instead of my Stanley's, which are probably just as good.
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The software said it ran under Windows 98/NT/2000, or better.
So I installed it on Linux...
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not to worry, David. the pundits here think it's MY fault the edge fell apart. and I didn't get the Blue Chip chisels.
dave
David Binkowski wrote:

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Bay Area Dave wrote:

Just a couple of comments. Are these chisels actually mortising chisels? If not, you might consider picking up a set of them for that purpose. That said, you can get a special on a four chisel unpolished Two Cherries bench chisel set in a wooden box for $75 at:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code -5009050&Category_Code=TXQ1-2

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No they weren't mortising chisels. But they have a metal top, mentioned on the package as being able to withstand mallet blows and the "occasional" hammer blow! Besides, if I were to want to make a hinge mortise, I can't believe I need to use a beefy mortising chisel instead of a bench chisel.
dave
Joseph Crowe wrote:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code -5009050&Category_Code=TXQ1-2

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Bay Area Dave wrote:

You use a hammer on your chisels when cutting hinge mortises?
Chuck Vance Just say (tmPL) Well, that explains a lot.
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I didn't use a hammer, Chuck. You aren't reading my posts very closely, are you? :)
dave
Conan The Librarian wrote:

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Bay Area Dave wrote:

I give them them as much attention as they deserve. (And in this case, sadly, a lot more.)
In one sentence you mentioned that they were supposed to be able to withstand mallet and hammer blows. In the next sentence you talked about chopping hinge mortises.
Can you see how someone might logically infer that the two were related?
OK, fine ... you win. All Blue Chips are a piece of crap (despite my experiences to the contrary). And you don't need mortising chisels to chop mortises. And you should be able to do everything from opening paintcans to paring a paper thin slice of endgrain with the same chisel. And it should never get dull or chip. And you should be able to buy it for less than $20. Happy now?
Chuck Vance
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I wasn't intending to chop deep mortises without getting dedicated mortising chisels, but what I'm trying to explain in this thread is that by cutting into red oak four times less than 3/16" deep, for testing the chisel, I found the edge destroyed. my Sears did the same thing and came away none the worse for wear. I don't intended to use a beveled edge chisel to chop inch deep mortises, but I should be able to tap the chisel into the wood to "mark" it.
Thanks for the snide comment.
I didn't say I had the Bluechip chisels. they are Protouch.
Again, you aren't reading my posts closely. I know, I know, my posts don't deserve any attention...
dave
Conan The Librarian wrote:

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Fine. Buy Sears chisels then. Some of us will continue to use our Marples chisels. And guess what? We will post about our own experiences with them. And guess what? We might not agree with you. Get used to it.

I'm glad you enjoyed it. I assumed that you must, seeing how often you you beg for it.

I know that. My mistake to include the words "Blue Chip" in my previous post. But I have Blue Chips. And guess what? They're made by the same company. And guess what? They perform about as well as I would expect for a set that runs less than $30.

Not nearly as much as you seem to think they do.
Chuck Vance
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I can't buy Sears chisels in the sizes I want and who would expect them to be the equivalent of their tools from 30 years ago anyway?
Peace, Chuck.
dave
Conan the Librarian wrote:

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I have been using blue chip for 30 years and am quite happy with the product. My projects being rudimentary probably are not so demanding of my chisels as they are of Dave's..
I suppose Marples must be either fooling a bunch of people or at least producing an acceptable product, after all they have only been doing it for a hundred years or so ....mjh
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perhaps the quality of the one ProTouch that I purchased isn't the same as your 30 year old blue chips, Mike.
dave
Mike Hide wrote:

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Bay Area Dave wrote...

Tell you what, Dave. Send me your ProTouch chisel and I'll test it for you. I am reasonably confident that a thorough examination of the specific tool in question will reveal the reason it didn't perform well. If it has a correctable problem, I'll fix it.
Either way, I'll return it to you. There's a very good chance the mystery will be resolved, and you might even get a better tool back than you bought. Although it is highly unlikely that I'll harm the tool in any substantial way [1], if I do somehow manage to damage it, I'll gladly repay you its purchase price.
See? There *is* such a thing as a free lunch. Well, you pay postage, ok?
Cheers!
Jim
[1] The hardness tester leaves a tiny dimple at the test point. I expect to do that particular test in probably four or five places. It is possible that I'll need to test the face (or do you call it the back?) near the edge, in which case I'll restore that area to flat. Any other test marks will be left behind, as they will not impair the tool's function.
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I'd send it to you, but I've gotten a refund on it already. :)
Nice try, Jim!
dave
Jim Wilson wrote:

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Bay Area Dave wrote:

In the event that anyone's unaware of who Jim Wilson is and why Dave missed a great opportunity - Jim made the mortising chisels Steve Knight carried. He's a tool maker and knows his stuff. I recall that he's gotten back into making his mortising chisels again after a hiatus. Can't find the new url but here's his old one. Perhaps he'll provide his new url
www.paragoncode.com/toolmaking/
I'm certain that when you got your chisel back it'd be sharper than you could make it and the back would be dead flat.
As for his mortising chisels - well you can try one out when the lock miter joints are done :)
charlie b
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