which of these tools .... cut hollow-core door ends off


I need to cut 7 or 8 ends (not sides) off 30" and 24" masonite.com 1-3/8" hollow core 6-panel doors. The mgr. at HD says the panel saw binds and twists against the mouldings b/c it pressurizes inwards as it cuts. I have a 1/3 sheet sander. But I'm gonna be cutting tops and bottoms indesriminantly, and the pieces need to be stripped, and go back in, for sure; something goes back. Doesn't matter what. Painting.
These are my current tool options:
1)a 10" TS w/ 200 tooth, or 36 tooth comb HSS blade please note I do not have a helper when I need one. I do have a roller stand, but ain't too good if not behind saw
2)router/ w/ table, 26 Ti-C bits 1/4" x 7/8" double flute straight 1/4" x 1-3/8"! double flute straight upsriral 3/8" x 1" double flute straight flush trim(end bearing) 1/2" x 1" double flute straight flush trim(end bearing) 1/2" x 3/4" split straight plungable double flute mortising 3/4" x 3/4" double flute straight
3)cheesy jigsaw bunch o' blades
4)buy a circular saw (not wanted)
5)buy a router bit (works)
6)rent a circular saw (prob 1/3 the cost of buying one)
what can I do?
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Snip

The problem here is that your saw will probably not have the capacity to cut the doors with the KEEPER portion between the blade and the fence. You would have to have the waste between the blade and the fence and with this large of an object that is going to be hollow through the cut your results will probably be less than desirable.

Probably the best choice but with a 3/8" or larger carbide downward spiral bit. DO THIS OUT OF THE TABLE and use a straight edge to guide the router. Use a spacer block to set the distance from the bottom of the door to the guide edge of the guide for a consistant measurement on both sides and ends. Cut only deep enough to get through the panel on top and then flip the door and go again. Then cut deeper to finish the cut where there is solid wood the full thickness.

For get it if you want good results.

Probably going to splinter the top edge of the surface.

See above.

See above
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bent wrote:

By far the easiest. Clamp a straight edge to the door, run the saw shoe against it. Clean off and reinsert bottom rail piece. Clean up with a hand plane or sander.
Not sure why you wouldn't want a circular saw if you have a house, but whatever. Buy the saw, keep the box, use it, sell it on eBay - takes the time pressure off and you might find that you'll find a circular saw useful and want to keep it.
BTW, I've cut numeous doors on panel saws and never had a problem. The saw runs on rails and there isn't any compressive force on the door other than what is applied to hold it in place - and you really don't need any clamping pressure at all. Since the door won't have any lateral force on it, its weight is more than enough to keep it in place for the ten seconds it will take to cut the end off.
R
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I would buy the world's cheapest circular saw. You might be surprised what else you could use it for, I would not rent ( I can't imagine the rent and 2 trips to the store could come close to the cost of a cheap saw). Borrow a friend's?? I don't understand the store man's comment about a panel saw not working well.
The table saw would work if you had full tables around, but not with just a single stand. Router could work if you have a long enough straight bit to go through the door (1 3/8" residential, 1 3/4 commercial) I would not use a jig saw.
It could be worth building an edge guide for the saw. Here is an excellent model: http://www.womeninwoodworking.com/tips/startingpoints7.cfm though any straight edge clamped to the door will work. You should score the cut with a utility knife before the saw cut to help prevent chip out and/or raveling of the cut edge.
If you cut completely through the top or bottom rails in the door, you will need a sharp chisel to try to reuse the rails in your hollow door sections. You will need some glue and clamps. You will probably need some sandpaper. Hope some of this helps. Here is a sight explaining the process: http://doityourself.com/doors/shortenadoor.htm ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

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bent (in 1140977618 snipped-for-privacy@sp6iad.superfeed.net) said:
| I need to cut 7 or 8 ends (not sides) off 30" and 24" masonite.com | 1-3/8" hollow core 6-panel doors.
Router with two bits. Be nice to yourself - glue and screw a straight 1x2 flat along one edge of a piece of 1/8" x 6" x 30+" piece of masonite. When the glue has cured, use a 1/2" straight router bit and run the router along the 1x2 to trim the masonite.
Mark the door where you want it cut at both sides. Place the masonite jig across the door and clamp it in place so that the trimmed edge of the masonite splits the mark on both sides of the door. Now use your router with the same 1/2" straight bit to cut halfway through the door. Leave the jig in place and flip the door over.
Using another 1/2" router bit with a 1/2" pilot bearing on the end adjusted so that the pilot bearing rides against the masonite jig and door skin, complete the cut from the other side.
The masonite jig will provide a smooth surface to support the router and will show you exactly where the door will be cut - and the 1x2 fence will ensure that your cut is straight.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
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I cut 'em slightly large with a Bosch jigsaw (great wine and cheese!), then I do the final squaring trim with a bearing guided router bit against a, 8x48 Masonite straight edge.
It seems like extra work, but it gives a perfectly square bottom and TWO perfect sides, even on prefinished doors.
Barry
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I'm not sure what the HD guy is talking about. Is there molding that hangs out beyond the face of the door? If these are just the standard imitation raised panel masonite doors that are primed you can use about any method you like. I always cut them on the table saw and don't bother to score them. I have someone tail the door for me and use a stick to push the drop through. Much easier to cut off than a regular old veneered door.
Mike O.
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Probably referring to the appearance of moldings since this is a door with the appearance of 6 panels. These come hollow core also.
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In my experience at the borg, the panel saw's problem is that they have the dullest piece of crap blade installed and I am more than certain the saws never get tuned.
If I were you, use a circular saw with a good blade and a straightedge clamped to the door. Cover the area to be cut on both sides with masking tape to prevent tearout and have at it. I did several doors in my house with this method and had no problems.
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bent wrote:

G'day Bent, I'll not knock any of the suggestions you have received as each to own. I, personally use the identical method as Frank. One other suggestion which can save a lot of heartache, is to put a screw into each end the of cut rail which you are going to re-use. Not into the end grain, but about an inch in from each end. Leave the screws protruding so that they are easy to grab. This way id the rail happens to slip to far into the door as you are replacing it, it is easy to pull it back a touch and flush it up. Once it's all clamped, remove the screws. regards John
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Sun, Feb 26, 2006, 1:15pm snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com (bent) doth stumble and mumble: <snip> what can I do?
You can start by explaining what "indesriminantly" means.
JOAT Never go to bed angry. Stay up and plot your revenge.
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Using AutoCAD I drew the basic size of the 78" x 30" or 24" door, w/ all of the panels measured to with in a 1/16". I need to cut off up to 6". I am gonna cut both tops and bottoms so that they look good. The 4 doors can be seen while standing in the same position. It is easy to take an idea, like, since the top door rail is half the size of the bottom, remove 2" from the top, and 4" from the bottom, and refine the idea. Its just not as simple as 1", 2", 4", 6" off though, and there are a lot of parameters. I set all 4 doors side by side on my 19" triny and can see whats going on. I can fine tune. Its easy for me. In seconds I could make them 3D, w/ wood grain. It means that if what I come up with requires me to leave just 1/16" of the interior plug, then I'm gonna have to live with that. Don't know if I'll be cutting solid or winging it.
A few HD employees have told me they aren't allowed to cut doors. The mgr. cut my 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" 4x8 sheets of birch plywood for me. He made them right. It wasn't a learning experience for him.
Spelling is another story. I probably use words others never do too.
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to make along story short, real short, of the 12 side and top jambs from 3/4" mdf 4x8 sheet I had cut on the HD panel saw, I measured (.001" dial caliper -$20 busybeetools.c - every thou is a good thou) and labeled every one. The average of all errors of all ends of all pieces was .001". (not two or 0)
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u can insult someone and then deny it.
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