What's the Miter with You? Square your Miter Gauge!

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A quick and accurate method to square your miter gauge:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php
I know I have started threads in the past that describe this method, but I finally put it in a video. If a picture speaks a thousand words... Yeah, I know, there are dozens of methods for doing this and that the 'old dogs' that use a square pushed against the blade and the miter gauge will never change but...
Enjoy
--
www.garagewoodworks.com

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GarageWoodworks wrote:

On my table saw the miter gauge slot is perfectly square to the front edge of the table. To square the gauge it's a simple matter of putting the gauge up side down in the miter gauge, run it up tight to the table's edge and lock it down.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Try doing that with an Osborne EB3 (my bread and butter gauge), big Incra or TS-Sled and report back to me. :^)

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GarageWoodworks wrote:
<snip>

Does the Incra 2000 count? It's what I'm using.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Sure, but I envision it being a huge PITA. And not very accurate.

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On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 11:09:13 -0500, the infamous GarageWoodworks wrote:

Brian, glare and insufficient contrast on that vid make it so that I cannot see the face or needle on the dial indicator, even in the inset shots, even with my computer glasses on. ;)
-- "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt." -- Clarence Darrow
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On 2/21/10 12:32 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Me, too. I just assumed it was doing what he said it was doing. :-)
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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yes, that was a problem. It's not really glare, but the quality of the camera. When I zoomed in tight the dial face was clear, but my gauge and square was out of frame. I either needed a high def camera or a second camera that was zoomed in. On my computer I CAN see the dial when it is moving. Otherwise it was very difficult to see. I did my best with what I have.
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On 2/21/2010 1:58 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:

Better camera won't help the particular problem. If you watch your video you'll see that the dial on the TS-aligner off to the left is much clearer than the dial indicator that you are using. Also if you look closely at your hands you'll see a lot of white areas--what photographers call "blown highlights". If your camera has exposure control try adjusting it to darken the image a bit and I think it will be clearer. Alternatively, try playing with the positions of your lights to put the light where you want it and at the angle you want it. If you haven't read <(Amazon.com product link shortened)> you might find it very worthwhile.
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Ok. Thanks. Maybe I will re-shoot that segment.
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wrote:

I will have`to put the same shirt back on. ;^)
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On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 15:02:18 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"

Simply lowering the light level would help, too. Unscrew a couple of the fluor lamps, Bri.

Ditto Exposure and Lighting (For Digital Photographers Only) http://fwd4.me/GYN Lots of good info.
-- "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt." -- Clarence Darrow
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I re-shot the problem scenes in the video. Please consider re-viewing if you get a chance.
Thanks!
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On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:20:33 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks

Done. Ahh, much better. The dial is quite readable, but the picture is still blown out (your hand has pure white spots on top, etc.)
Lowered light levels would help your $20 Chiwanese camera a bit. <vbg>
BTW, I've never even seen a thickarse square like that. Where'd you find it? Is it aluminum or steel?
-- "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt." -- Clarence Darrow
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Thanks. Looks like I need to read-up a little.

Ed Bennett. Can't go wrong with Ed. High quality, awesome customer service:
http://www.ts-aligner.com/accessories.htm

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On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 20:14:02 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks
I said:

Ayup.
My crowbars are in tears tonight because of you and Ed, Brian. They couldn't even _budge_ my tight little wallet.
-- "Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt." -- Clarence Darrow
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Forgot to mention that it's steel.
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wrote:

This presumes that the blade is aligned dead on with the miter slot. It would also help to have an extension fence attached to the miter gauge face, for the same reason that you use a #8 to joint an edge instead of a block plane.
That said, I now have another use for my indicator and my 18" Starrett combo square.
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Yes. Mine is dead-on. I use a TS-aligner Jr for that.

I used that gauge for video purposes only. I use an Osborne EB3 normally.

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On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 08:34:20 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell

That said, I've always wondered if there was any practical way to align a blade to the miter slot if they were not parallel from the get go? ~ Unless of course, there was some type of adjustment built into the arbour shaft of the saw, something I've admittedly never investigated.
The only two ways I can envision to fix such a problem would be to shim the blade in the arbour or possibly to sand/grind the miter slot so that it was parallel. Both these methods would be quite difficult to accomplish properly in my opinion.
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