This started out in the thread about the Osborne EB3, but I'm in the
market for one myself, having found the Incra 1000SE wanting. What
I'm looking for is one that has a one piece bar with a flip-stop
that'll go out to at least 36" or so, that works with a sacrificial
fence to prevent tear-out, and is "very" accurate on miters (with a
guide bar that adjusts for zero slop). The Kreg looks good, but it
only goes out to 24". I'd really like some extra length. (heh)
Here's one that extends to 46" ($239)
You can put a sacrificial board on the Kreg to get extra wood. However, the
flip stop will no longer work. The original track by Duginski (before
Kreg) had a flip stop that works over the sac wood. But it wasn't as solid.
I'm not sure if you can get the old track any more.
But here's something that is close, and you can extend it.
I'm almost sure you can connect it to the Kreg.
Woodhaven sells a Miter Gauge that is very similar to the Kreg.
They sell a deluxe kit as well, for $240.
I think I got my Kreg on sale for $100 less.
You could probably make a flip stop out of wood.
Woodhaven has a flip stop that should work over a sac wood piece.
The Kreg allows precise tuning. (Vernier does 0.1 degree, and you can
tweak it further). I also like the solid stops for common angles.
But you are not forced to use these stops.
The Woodhaven doesn't have the vernier.
When properly set up to fit you miter slot, and the end of the fence
farthest from the blade extended away from you in the 45 degree position,
the telescoping shaft extended full length, grab the far end of the fence
and notice that you can wiggle it 3 to 4 degrees +or -.
Accurate 45's in this position will be achieved by luck good luck.
While the gauge is stable with the far end of the fence closer to you with
the telescoping shaft in its shortest position when set at 45 degrees, you
increase the tendency of tear out as the cut is made.
For the best position to guard against tear out on the back side of "any"
miter gauge the fence should be set so that the end of the fence farthest
from the blade travels forward of the end closest to the blade.
They sure are inherent in most gauges. If I have a board that is as long as
Leon describes that I want to miter I use my chop saw.
If there were real problems with the EB3 why would all the leading WW
magazines rate it so high?
Board length has nothing to do with it. The gauge set at 45 degrees with
the telescoping arm extend to the far position has slop.
Every Osbourn that I have seen has up to 1/2" slop at the end of the fence
in the shortest position.
I understand that Fine Woodworking was not impressed for the reason
Is yours the 1 in a million that does not have the play when set at 45
NO. Most miter gauges DO NOT have the telescoping third leg of a triangle
as the Osborne does. The problem is that the inner shaft fits too loosely
inside the outer shaft. When the inner shaft is extended to its outer most
position or near 45 degrees the whole telescoping support flexes back and
forth causing the fence to move back and forth.
Ok, let me resay this as I think I may have misled you here.
I am not talking about extending the length of the fence. I am talking
about extending the telescoping angle adjustment bar to its longest position
at 45 degrees.
This is a problem if you use this 45 degree settings regardless of the size
When the miter gauge is setting on the saw, one end of the fence is close to
the blade. The other end of the fence will deviate dramatically when the
gauge is set to cut in the 45 degree position and the "angle adjustment
bar", not the fence, is extended to its longest position.
If you extend the fence to accommodate a longer board, the situation only
The 45 degree setting that has the problem with retaining the 45 degree
setting is when the end of the fence opposite the blade end is the leading
end such that the end closest to the blade trails the other end of the
When you get the gauge, before going to too much trouble to make the miter
bar fit correctly, set the gauge on your saw and set the gauge to 45 degrees
with the fence far end in the shortest possible position and leading the
blade end of the fence. Grab the fence and you will be able to wiggle it
back and forth several degrees with little effort.
The telescoping bar that sets the degree angle will be at it longer setting.
To minimize tear out on the back end of the cut you want to be able to use
both 45 degree settings on the gauge. Unfortunately only one of the 45
degree setting is stable.
With the gauge set at 45 degrees with the far in trailing, the 45 degree
will be very sturdy.
Hummm... I pretty much use the Dubby miter sleds for most of my miter cuts
where I am cutting several pieces to fixed or repeated lengths.
I wanted however to have something simple and quick to square the ends of
stock and I wanted something to be dead on with out having double check
degree settings. I was looking for a miter gauge that was better than the
stock issue that comes with the saw. I considered many different ones and
chose the Osbourne EB3 as first choice. I liked the telescoping fence but
found problems with the unit design. I took it back and bought the Kreg.
It too had problems but Kreg was more interested in fixing the problem than
Osbourne was. I have been using the Kreg for a couple of years now to
mostly square stock.
The Osbourne EB3 works great at squaring stock but if you are going to spend
$200, 2 years ago, you might as well get one that can cut accurate 45's
also. I do use it in that capacity on occasion. Humm I wonder why
Osbourne is offering the EB3 at almost half price right now? ;~)
The Dubby is great, The Kreg is pretty darn good. I believe that just
about any of the after market gauges that use an indexing pin for frequently
used angles are probably the least likely to have problems long term, the
Kreg uses this method. There are a few new miter gauges that have come out
in the last couple of years that use indexing pins and I would give them a
strong look if I were in the market again.
I will add that the adjustment of the bar for the miter slot is
problematic for me, I have a 1948 Unisaw the slots have some wear,
trying to get the EB-3 to slide smoothly in the miter slot with out
slop is a PITA. The Rockler miter gage I replaced the EB-3 with
adjusts the whole bar along its length a more elegant solution than
the EB-3 multiple wedging allen screws.
I strongly considered the Rockler also. Great for building from scratch but
with only being able to set the gauge in 1.5 degree increments I had to
pass. While normally 1.5 degree increments fits the bill for new building,
I also do furniture repair on occasion and have to tweak miters to really
odd angles not found as a preset setting on any miter gauge. I needed a
miter gauge that would lock in at any angle.
What do any of these after market miter gauges accomplish that a sled
with a cleat tacked in place along the layout line of the angle in
question doesn't do more accurately and a for a lot less money.
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