Varnish of my dreams--found!

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On 7/23/2009 2:14 PM HeyBub spake thus:

Nah, it's their useless web site. Even the people who work at Aces will tell you that their website sucks. No point even looking there for anything.
I asked when I bought the quart and was told that it was a currently-available item (even though the can had quite a bit of dust on the lid, which is why I asked).
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Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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Gosh Dave, finishes do go bad. If you have been using a 10 year old quart of finish you may have been missing out on more modern finishes. The product that the store had "1" of may have been way past it's shelf life.
Anyway, I use a bit more than 1 quart every 10 years. ;~) , but have been having good luck with General Finishes for the last 30 years and more recently Lawrence McFadden products. IIRC Lawrence McFadden products are only available on line however they are a family owned company that has been around longer than me.
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On 7/23/2009 5:06 PM Leon spake thus:

>

Well, that's the point--actually 2 of them:
1. Another great thing about good old-fashioned oil-based (or "solvent-based" if you prefer) varnish is that it has, as far as I can tell, a near-infinite shelf life, provided it's carefully sealed between uses. I've used varnish that was actually older than that and it was still fine.
2. My point is that I prefer this old-school stuff to more modren finishes. Certainly to that crap I got from Cabot, which is apparently the latest technology.

Do they make a traditional oil-based varnish? Any links?
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http://lawrence-mcfadden.com /
http://www.generalfinishes.com /
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On 7/23/2009 7:39 PM Leon spake thus:

>

No oil-based varnish there that I can see. Lots of lacquer, sealers, polyurethane, but not what I'm looking for.

None there either. Under "Oil Based Finishes" they have
o Oilbase wood stains (nope) o Arm-R-Seal topcoats (nope: urethane, not what I want) o Gel stains o Danish oils & outdoor oil o Salad bowl finish
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David Nebenzahl wrote:

Try Pettit, Interlux, and Epifanes. All have oil based varnishes. Good luck finding any of them if you're Californicated though.
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In

not McFadden, but
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbrb7&atomz=1
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On 7/23/2009 9:40 PM ChairMan spake thus:

Good god, man, did you even look at that page? It's *white* varnish. Sheesh.
Now this stuff might be closer: http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr !6
At least it's clear. But I kinda doubt it; looks more like spar varnish. (Undoubtedly good for exterior finishing, but that's not what I'm after.)
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David Nebenzahl wrote:

Perhaps if you explained exactly what result you were going after it would help people steer you to an appropriate product.
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I guess my original response was to point out that the more modern finishes regardless of brands are better than they were 10 years ago. Not all brands are created equal. General finishes has oil based poly finishes, you may or may not like this particular brands oil based poly finish. Personally I dislike a high closs finish.
Concerning the General Finishes Arm-r-Seal "Gloss" oil based poly varnish, I get great results with wiping on a base coat to seal the wood followed up with a "single" final coat. That final coat goes on with, " and several years ago I thought I would never say this" a premium quality Wooster "foam" brush. Using a 3" brush you can normally cover 1.5 - 2 sq feet with a single dip to the can. That really helps to eleminate lap and brush marks and the surface settls out nicely.
You really have to try the better brands to decide iwhether you like the finish or not.
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And what prompted you to use a foam brush? Considering the poor reputation that many/most have as a finishing tool, why take the chance?
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wrote in message

Instructions on the can. And it specified a quality foam brush.
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On 7/24/2009 8:03 PM Leon spake thus:

Well, that's another thing that's so great about my old-fashioned varnish: It doesn't matter what kind of brush you use.
Since the stuff flows out so nicely, one isn't required to get a 100% Mongolian yak-hair brush for $200, and use just the right length brush strokes.
I do use a good brush (a nice ox-hair one), but so long as the brush doesn't shed bristles, you can use just about anything. As opposed to brushing lacquer, which totally depends on brush quality and brushing technique.
I'm trying to finish furniture here, not achieve Zen satori with my brushing technique.
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David Nebenzahl wrote:

http://www.cabotstain.com/products/product/Varnish.html?productTypeName=Protective%20Top%20Coat

i'll stick with my varathane water based poly. Dries in three hours and looks like glass. Cleans up with water. done.
s
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