When I remodeled the bathroom in my old house, I ripped out the false
ceiling and lying on the ceiling, was beautiful pair of lineman's
pliers. The house was around 50 years old then, and I still have them.
I guess they are around 90 years old now.
Super quality and I bet the guy wondered where they went till the day he
died. Although I have no clue who he was, I think of him, and thank
him, every time I use them, which is quite often.
Having a PM Model 66, it's how things are intended to be! :)
I've used it that way for so long it's completely automagic to move it
to the rear to remove when wanting to do so.
Personally, I find the extra stability _far_ outweighs the possible
inconvenience (and, as noted, after 30 yr or so, you don't even think of
it as inconvenient; it's only until you're trained (properly I might add
:) ) it seems so.
Not that I have an opinion or anything... !:)
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 8:43:45 AM UTC-5, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
t unless that end of the gauge bar is off the table.
back for cross cutting wide stock. In this case, the keeper keeps the far
end of the gauge from rotating up as you start the cut.
how I’ve done business for a very long time.
I removed mine, but not because I did not like it. In fact it comes in rea
ly handy when using a tenoning jig. But my outfeed table track does not ha
ve the T slot and when it came to a choice between the slot or the outfeed
table, the table won hands down. That table has saved me too many times.
Correct! The TS table top does not have an extended miter slot to begin
with, adding an out feed does not require there to be one added other
from the fact that the bar needs room. So give it plenty of room.
I once left a hammer in a wall I later sheetrocked. When I realized it, I opened the wall since it was one of my favorite hammers.
The contractor's assistant who framed and finished my kitchen left a hammer in the soffit over the cabinets. When he realized that, they decided to leave it.
To me, hammers that feel right are sacred. It would take more that a little sheetrock and extra spackle to leave one behind.
Yes! And I read your response to my mentioning to simply make the slot
wider as a possible necessary step to keep the miter gauge going
straight after the cut had been made.
Several years ago there was a long and drawn out discussion about an out
feed table having accurate miter slots to further guide the gauge after
the cut. I was just reiterating that the grove simply needs to provide
a path and not be a guide.
Well, the head of the factory miter gauge has some several inches
overhang before it clears the blade entirely, so a further guide
wouldn't have _zero_ effect...
But the following was implicit in the previous post:
The following is for the benefit (if any were to be perceived) of the OP
under the caveat it is an express alternate technique admittedly
requiring further effort than the absolute minimum required for simple
functionality. Any who might be offended or feel the need to
pontificate further need progress no further.
_IF_ (the proverbial "big if") you're one of those that the appearance
of things is as of much (or maybe even more) importance than simply
functionality, one may find router bits with which one may create the
matchint t-slot, or one could use a commercial t-slot fitting.
Whether this is of sufficient importance to you is left entirely to your
discretion; it is provided simply to remind that there are relatively
simple (albeit somewhat more involved than "the bare minimum")
techniques which will allow for accomodation of the factory miter gauge.
Before you continue on with this, think about the standard saw with no
outfeed table. There is no miter slot guide beyond that of the saw
itself. Now - how is an outfeed slot going to provide any benefit at
all? It has zero effect.
Just what in the hell are you trying to say here? Besides trying to
sound like a lawyer, the above makes absolutely no sense at at..
You need to stop writing - this is of little more sense than your
You really need to stop trying to sound like some academic idiot. Just
about everything you have said in this post makes no sense at all.
Once the head of the miter gauge reaches the front of the
blade, the cut is complete. So I'm not seeing why anyone
would care about clearing the blade completely.
I suspose if you're cutting dados or something like that
you care until the gauge reaches the center of the blade,
but even then most of the bar is in the table slot.
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