Length of miter bar slots cut into an outfeed table?

[mttt]

Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table - if the table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the miter bar, right?

First Question: Wouldn't the proper way to size the outfeed miter slots be - to run the miter gauge fence up to (or slightly past) the arbor, then see how much of the bar protrudes off the table???

You don't really need to keep pushing the gauge forward, once the cut is completed, right?

Second Question: Is there a good reason to make the outfeed slots using T-track, or some other snug fitting apparatus? Or should I just cut a slot that reasonably matches the width and depth of the slot in the CI table?

Thanks!

[Mark Jerde]

Lots of folks have sliding tables whose runners are longer than the standard miter bar.

-- Mark

[Nick]

For safety, shouldn't you push the wood past the very sharp, very fast, spinning, carbide tipped blade?

Nick

[codepath]

I think that I would try not push it far enough that I dadoed my face.

[Tom]

Just getting the material past the spinning blade will give you an idea how far to cut the tracks into the outfeed table. They don't need to be tight to the bar. Tom Someday, it'll all be over....

[Bruce]

I wouldn't try and make them act as miter slots, just provide clearence for the bar (maybe make the slots 1" wide). The reason is if you make the slots the same size as the table slots, the miter will either bind or be deflected when it enters the outfeed table slots. Unless you make the outfeed table out of the same material (cast iron?), it will never align exactly.

-Bruce

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Almost right. Allow enough to clear the blade.

I like to be able to get past the blade before removing the piece in most cases. Yes, if I'm cutting thin stock I just draw it back, but not always.

Right, just allow some clearance. Ed [e-mail]

[Bridger]

make them a bit longer than the bars would indicate. the dead end slots will get some sawdust packed into the ends, and you don't want your sled to stop short.

correct.

you could do this, but it seems like a lot of extra effort for no real benefit.

give yourself a little clearance

[Ken]

I made my slots 1" wide and slightly longer than what would be required to have the wood clear the blade. I also drilled a 1" hole at the end of the slot to stop sawdust buildup. The dust gets pushed to the end of the slot and falls through.

[B a r r y B u r k e J r .]

Nope, but it's easier just to run them all the way.

I used leftover hardwood for high wear and low cost. Commercial track will work, as will a groove directly in the top material.

Barry

[brad]

gets pushed to the end of the slot and falls through.

Wow, great idea. I'm gonna do that on mine....

[Roy Smith]

That sounds like an excellent idea.

Another hint I picked up somewhere is to make the hardwood runners not quite as deep as the slots. If you leave a little clearance (1/16 is probably enough), the runner rides right over the sawdust that collects without binding.

[Doug Miller]

Drilling a hole through the outfeet table at the end of the slot would allow the sawdust to fall out, eliminating that problem.

-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

[Scott Brownell]

I eliminated that problem by using a dado blade to create the slots instead of routing them, the resulting slope at the end allows the dust to be pushed up onto the outfeed top.

Scott

-- An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms up later, the damage remains.