Repost: Foundation VIII & Jointer Tune Up Questions

Folks -
Well, I spent most of the morning using the "Blue Collar Backhoe" - my shovel.... Clearing out the foundation trenches for the new shop. I have removed most of the loose soil and stones and will shopvac the rest (much to SWMBO's consternation) out this evening after the sun has passed... Tomorrow I am going to go get lumber, rebar and dobies and start laying out the footings. EXCITING!
So, working on the new shop in the AM and Evening and working IN the shop in the afternoon... I have an old Craftsman 6" jointer, a good cast iron one and knew that it "needed attention" I removed the jointer proper from the stand, cleaned it up and installed and adjusted new knives... I think I got everything within about 2-3 thou of each other, and I *don't* look forward to doing that again anytime soon. I can see why they get the bucks for the set up tool. Tightening the locking wedges invariably would move each blade just enough to screw it up, and the adjustment on the grub screws really is a bit coarse for the fine adjustment needed.
I adjusted the infeed table so that it was even with the outfeed table, then used the dial indicator set up that I recently purchased to check if the infeed table had any droop or was out of square (parallel??) with the outfeed... sho' enough! With the pulley side of the infeed table even with the pulley side of the outfeed table, I discovered that it (the infeed table) was canted by about 25 thousandths (low) to the operator side.
Additionally, I checked the end of the table at both corners and discovered a 10 to 12 thou drop. I clamped a 24" aluminum level to the outfeed table and extended it over the edge of the infeed table to check this... Now I know that the level isn't a true straight edge and that there is some slop in measuring out that far, but I could definitely see light at the feed end of the infeed table.
There are four height adjustment bolt assemblies underneath the two dovetailed way supports for the infeed table - adjusting these is a real trick and I am not sure if I have it right or not. I have set up the dial indicator to measure how much I am moving the infeed table, but am wondering if there is a better way. This is about 1 RCH away from being a real pain in the ass.
I have a mess of QSWO to joint and want to get the jointer running 5x5 before I get going. Is there an easier way to do this? Finally, the jointer is powered by a 1/2 HP cap start motor. How big a motor do y'all think I could get away with if I wanted MORE POWER? I have a 3/4 and a spare 1 hp that I can press into service.
I think I'll be happy with the jointer once I do get it square, sharp and strong. I just wish it didn't take so long!
John Moorhead
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Make some magnetic knife setters. It's a breeze from then on. Shim the OUTFEED table, as it gets moved a lot less. Go for the full horse! Tom Work at your leisure!
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2004 03:31:36 GMT, "John Moorhead"

that's gonna want to make twisted boards for ya.

that's gonna want to make bowed boards for ya.

I don't think putting an oversize motor will harm anything. just don't try to get enough belt tension to transfer any 27 HP- the bearings in the jointer aren't made to take it. I doubt that you'll be loading it up all that much anyway, but if you did the belt would just slip a little. No prob (tm JOAT). I have a 2 HP motor on my 8"- I'd say go ahead and use the 1HP motor.
Do pay attention to the RPMs though. overrevving the jointer bearings is a quick way to kill them. you may need to use different pulley sizes to keep the cutterhead speed right.

I fought with a 6" boice-crane jointer for several years. finally got it good enough to use. sold it and got a rockwell delta 8" and never looked back.

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