I have a glued up guitar neck I need to joint and theres quite a bit of
spill out. Is it safe to run all that glue over the jointer blades with out
"gumming" them up?
Also, I don't understand how a jointer cannot create two parallel face. If
you joint a face and then place that reference against a fence to create a
perfect 90 degree angle, then why can't you use the newly jointed edge
against the fence to make another 90 degree angle. Is this just one of
those "in theory" things?
it isn't "theory". You cannot joint two opposing FACES as there is no way to
reference the other side. A thickness planer does that trick. But yes, you can
get the other edge jointed just fine, but it is typically done on the TS with a
really good blade.
Mark Chandler wrote:
What is clear, Dave, is that you have never thought about the jointer as a
powered plane. You _can_ join to a scribed parallel line with a jointer
just as you can with a hand plane. Neat thing is, you don't have to scribe
and fudge both sides, because the jointer fence is referencing the 90
degrees. Requires skill, though luck is certainly easier....
Sorry, Dave. The jointer _IS_ a motorized plane. That a subsequent machine
design has taken over one of its former functions in no way negates that.
You really want to see something challenging, look at how the old
apprentices had to work to drag a board over a (skewed, to give 'em a
chance) 16" wide stationary blade.
Oh yes, if you stop and think, there are really very few reasons why a board
needs perfectly parallel faces. Never really is after being treated with
one of a group of tools like planes, scrapers, sandpaper ....
You may be able to get close by putting a known parallel board on each side
of the stock. Align the top with the flat top edge face of the stock and let
the stock ride on those runners through the joiner until you have taken any
humps off the stock. This would be the hard way to do it.
I think he means to Attach the boards with parallel edges to the work and
then joint the whole shebang. Keep the reference boards as narrow as
possible, because you will lose wood and parallelism with each cut.
Of course, if you cna rip the reference boards you should be able to rip the
rough piece, as someone suggested.
Bubba there is absolutely no reason why you can't get that second 90 degree
face by referencing the opposing face or edge against the fence, but THINK,
what does that have to do with getting the two opposing faces, or edges for
that matter, parallel?
No a glue line will not gum up blades BUT, despite advertising to the
contrary, they are a bitch on the cutting edge.
To simplify why you can't joint two parallel faces with the method you
describe, picture a tapered table leg. While each of the 4 sides is in fact
90 degrees to its adjacent sides, they aren't parallel to their opposing
It won't gum them, but it might nick them. Use a scraper first to
remove excess glue. If your jointer is wide enough, make your passes
over different parts of the cutter head. Make your passes at an angle,
Imagine a length of board that is 3 inches wide. It is 2 inches thick
at one end, and 4 inches thick at the other. The faces are relatively
straight, but could use some touching up. Joint one face to make it
flat, then place the jointed face against the fence and joint the edge.
Turn it 90 degrees again, and joint the second face, using the jointed
edge against the fence. The first face is now facing up. When you've
made the second face straight, continue on to the other edge, just for
grins. Now stop and look at your board.
Assuming you took 1/8 inch from each surface, you now have a board that
is 2-3/4 inches wide. It will be 1-3/4 inches thick on one end, and
3-3/4 inches thick on the other. What you've wound up with is a long,
skinny truncated pyramid.
Although your faces aren't parallel, each edge will be 90 degrees from
the other. Go ahead, put a square to it. Assuming the fence produces
true right angles, you'll have four faces that are each at right angles
to both adjoining faces.
That angle isn't what determines parallelism, though. Your board will
be rectangular in cross-section, but not through its length.
Hope that helps,
Even though the first face and third face are at 90 degrees to the second face
they do not necessarily have to be parallel to each other.
The second face could start with say a 1" depth and finish with a 4" depth,
the first and third faces would both be at 90 degrees to the second face but
not parallel to each other.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.