For years I have been using a jig to straighten my boards on my table
saw, it does a much better and faster job than my jointer. The Walnut Desk
that I recently built and posted pictures of had 2, 15" x 60" panels made up
of 3 boards each. The desk top 31" x 60" was made from 6 glued up boards.
All edges were prepared on the TS using the jig and a 40 tooth Forrest WWII.
The joints for the most part are undetectable unless the grain was
significantly different or unless you looked at the ends of the panels.
The current Woodsmith magazine, No. 178, has a picture of a jig that
uses the exact same technique and method that I use but their jog is a bit
more refined. I highly recommend checking out this issue if you are
interested in making straight glue line joints whether you have a jointer or
Sorry, but my take on reactionary wood is -- don't use it. I have a
solid oak diningroom table that was fine for many years, but one
particularly dry summer, it split along the glue joint. If you joint
a piece of reactionary wood and use it in an application that has
significantly different humidity, it is going to warp or curl unless
you are using it in a application that uses short pieces.
Reactionary wood is wood that was improperly dried and or wood that may have
been under stress while the tree was growing. Typically wood taken from
limbs that grow closer to horizontal will have more internal stress. This
becomes a problem when sawing/ripping. As you rip the board it will tend to
want to close back up and pinch the blade or it can bow open, either way you
end up with a board that is no longer straight.
Leon, I was working from the comment that the OP wanted to
"straighten" the wood. I have no issues with using the TS to joint a
rough or uneven edge on a plank, indeed, that is my preference. If
the wood is curved, however, I will usually pass on it or try to
salvage a shorter piece.
Well Ed, I am the OP and I would sure like to find out where you get S2S
lumber that is straight, does not come in random widths, and is not narrower
on one end.
Perhaps you are buying S3S or S2S ripped straight on 1 edge.
Good advice. I have a very good jointer, but oft times the wood
supplied by my cranky old local sawmill owner represents a significant
challange at least to get to a starting point for jointing.
Think I'll look into it.
Mine is very much like yours Morris, I have the 2 toggle clamps mounted on 2
small wood blocks. I screw the 2 wood blocks down where ever needed. I do
however use a 8' long sled that is about 11" wide.
Unrelated question: It looks like your shop is in a garage? Is
there a problem with rust? I'm moving to Alabama next week and
finally will buy a table/cabinet saw (we're done moving for a long
while). Since basements are rare where there isn't ground frost I
was wondering what to do with cast iron tools.
BTW, a lot of good hints. Thanks.
I'll chime in here ifin you don't mind. I live in Houston and rust is
pretty much a nonissue unless I am careless. Humidity on a dry day is 50%
and 75-80% is the norm. Humidity is not a problem, it is when the humidity
condenses on the tools surface that you have a problem I actually have more
of a problem with sweat dripping on the tool surface. If your tool is cool
and exposed to humid warm air you will have a problem. If you air condition
the room and warm humid air is introduced you will have a problem. As long
as the equipment remains the same temperature as the humid air around it you
should not have a problems with condensation and rust. For those times
where you might not have the perfect environment apply 3-4 heavy coats of
TopCote initially to the cast iron surfaces and buff off. Follow up with
and extra coat every 6 months or so.
Yes that, or sweat on the iron and not wiping it off.
I think regardless of the humidity level, high or low, it will not be a
problem unless the temperature of the surrounding air suddenly becomes
warmer than the iron. Even with a dehumidifiier, if a glass of ice water
sweats during temperature changes, so will the iron if it is colder than the
surrounding air, and it takes very little moisture to start the rust. This
can be more of a problem in an air conditioned shop for cooling purposes if
it is suddenly exposed to an opened door letting in warm out side air.
Thats the stuff. I recomend several coats the first time to insure complete
coverage. Another product that does well are Empire products. They were
the original makers of TopCote.
You want to be very careful with products that have non stick lubricants in
them such as silicone and or possibly Teflon. If this products gets on your
wood project and is undetected it can cause a lot of head aches with
finishes. Remember, nothing sticks to Teflon, including your finish.
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