Howdy all... Pop always said the only dumb question is the one you
won't ask... What is the yellow plastic circle/plug for on the older
(possibly newer) C-man a0" contractor style table saws? The plug is
located in the table top right before the blade insert.
I didn't get a manual with my saw and I've wondered what it's there
for. I think it has "exact cut" or something like that on it. (I'm
working from memory and didn't feel like waiting till I got home to
post the question.. A. Because I'd probably forget -- again and/or B.
SWMBO or the youngins would keep me hoppin and I'd probably forget ---
again... ;-) )
It is used to indicate where you line of cut is. Use your miter gauge set
at 90 degrees and cut a small amount off the end of a board. With out
letting the board slip on the gauge, pull the board and gauge back until the
board is covering 1/2 the yellow spot and use a pencil, fine point permanent
marker, or utility knife to mark a line along the fresh cut edge of that
board. Repeat for the other side of the blade.
Use the line/lines on the yellow spot for reference to align your future
I did mine slightly different but with the same result.
I took some thin stock and ran into the blade without cutting off. Bring the
piece back without moving and you can mark both sides of the blade with one
Same result -- slightly different process to get both sides of the blade at
I used to have a similar one, years ago. The idea is that you make two marks
on the yellow circle (with a sharp pencil, marking knife, awl, etc) in line
with where the two sides of the blade cut, like this:
Then you can (supposedly) line up a mark on your lumber to the appropriate
mark on the yellow circle, and cut exactly on your mark. That's how it works
in theory, anyway. In practice, it works much better to line your cut mark up
to the blade itself -- while the blade is stopped, of course -- or, for
crosscuts, use an *accurate* miter gauge or sled. (Hint: if it says
"Craftsman" on it, it's not accurate.)
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
I actually think it was meant to be more of a safety feature. It allows
you to know where the blade will cut without lifting or removing the
blade guard. I used to own a Craftsman table saw, but I never recall
using the feature. That being said, some people might find it useful,
and at least Sears was trying to make an improvement. It definitely
does not hurt anything or get in the way.
Others have described it's purpose. It's been a feature on Craftsman
saws for a long time. I've seen it on a 1950's vintage "100" model
Craftsman saw, which belonged to my grandfather and now sits largely
unused in my brother's basement (I got the drill press and RAS, both of
similar vintage). Anyway, in those days the Exacti-Cut marker had
adjustable steel indexes.
Yeah, I know, I should have negotiated for the table saw, but I didn't
now any better back then. Besides, I really like my Grizzly TS and it's
great to have both a RAS and a TS in the shop.
They have had that yellow disk as long as I can remember, even in the late
50's. I use mine and like it. I would not mark it with anything other than a
lead pencil though because different blades will have different widths. RM~
Thanks for the info folks!!!
I put the saw back into my shop last night (short version - I was using
my bro-in-laws Delta - he's reclaimed it, so back to the craftsman for
Took a look at the exacta-cut and it's a little scuffed, but nothing
looks like it was marked... I'll do that as part of the final tune
Right! I have one of the fewer Craftsman "made by Ryobi" contactor saws
(aprox 4 yr old) made after the Emerson/Craftsman split and it also has the
yellow spot. I had always thought that either craftsman or emerson had a
patent on the yellow spot, guess it was a mutual deal.
As a Sears retiree I got a real deal (hell of a deal) on the close out
Craftsman/Ryobi saw and like it just as well as my old craftsman/emerson
and some features even better. The one thing I don't like on the
craftsman/ryobi are the hold down dogs attached to the splitter. I have a
complete guard splitter assembly from an old craftsman that I am going
to try to adapt to the new saw. If that doesn't work, guess I'll look at
some after market splitters or make one from scratch. RM~
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