I am looking for some help for the Craftsman 10" Table Saw that I
inherited from my Dad. I remember him buying it used in the early
70's, so my guess is that it is a late 60's early 70's model. I have
looked all over it in search of a part number in hopes of fixing it up
a little but the only thing that I can find is the word "Emerson" and
a part number that no one recognizes on the bottom of the insert. The
insert has a little lever that you lift to install and remove the
insert. The Saw is belt driven, with the motor hanging out back of
the saw, and a V-belt running to a pulley driving the blade. The Tilt
adjust is on the left, the height adjust in on the front, and the
adjustments are made with 4" or so plastic knobs with plastic
handles. There is a angle scale on the front with a metal indicator.
The Top is cast iron and it has one open grid cast iron wing. The
fence is a "T" type with a lever that you push down to lock it in
place, the fence also has a knob for "fine adjustments" that is
spring loaded and engages a track under the metal rail that is
attached to the front of the saw and the wing. There is a nice big
"Craftsman" logo on the front. There are no markings on the motor,
but it is wired for 110V. The on/off switch is mounted under the
table just to the right of the blade on the front of the saw. It is a
grey rocker switch with no "safety key". The saw body looks like bent
sheet metal and is painted black. It has a leg set attached that is
made similar to the body of the saw.
With that said, There are several things that I would like to fix on
the saw if I could. The angle and elevation controls have about a 1-2
turn "slop" in them before they engage to move the blade, and the
"lock down" bolt that is on the front seems to have no effect. What
is needed to fix these? It also sounds like some bearings may be
going, is there a good place to get information on how to replace
The saw was manufactured by Emerson Electric. The motor might be a 1 hp
unit. Motors have gotten more powerful over the years.
Your saw sounds a lot like mine, but mine is much older as it has a
repulsion-induction motor (Emerson discontinued this type of motor in 1953).
Your motor may be capacitor start induction run.
As far as I know, parts for the angle and elevation controls are no longer
available, and they haven't been for quite some time.
Replacing the bearings is rather easy. You need to remove the arbor, and
then remove the bearings. Then you go to an electric repair shop or an
automotive parts store for replacement.
After putting grease on the bearings, you insert them back in the housing,
insert the arbor, and tighten the nuts which hold everything together.
I also inherited my my father-in-law's Sears table saw. He bought the
saw in about 1969. From the description it sounds the same as mine.
I have always assumed that the adjustment wheels were made from aluminum
not plastic. As for the gages on the saw, I never use them. To square
the blade I use a solid square triangle or a protractor if other angles
With the design of the saw I have to periodically take a wire brush to
the adjustment screws and the locking bolt to get the sawdust and grim
from the threads. It sounds like the set screw in the adjustment wheels
are loose or the shafts badly scored from being loose. If so this
should be an easy fix.
Fortunately my father was a saver, so I have the original paperwork from
the saw. It has all of the part numbers, etc. I can make a copy,
(which I should have done years ago as the paper is wearing out) and
send you a copy of you would like. It will be a big file. Once copied
the file would be at least 2 to 3 mb and will be in the PDF format.
As for Sears having the parts, you may be surprised.
Additionally you may wish to check the following site.
If you would like the file please use email not the newsgroup.
I've got one of those, or its cousin.
Dad gave it to me when I bought my first house, a fixer upper.
It still works great, has the slop you mentioned, and cuts wood real
I replaced the fence with a t-square type fence because it would
always move when I locked it.
Also replaced the belt with a link type belt, with a great improvement
Wow, that's what my kids call me, at least my grandkid is too young to
Fortunately the fence seems to hold well, the miter seems pretty true,
I just need to adjust the blade so that it is parallel to the miter
slot, the back of the blade is farther from the fence than the
Well, in the continuing saga the power switch died. would anyone have
a newer style pull-on-push-off that they would sell? I missed a
couple on epay.
Thanks for the help, y'all
If it's set up like other contractor saws, take a look at the PALS system:
I put one on my saw and it sure made aligning it a lot easier.
Don't forget to check it with the blade at both 90 and 45 degrees. If
it's on for one and off for the other, the rods connecting the two
trunnions are not in the same plane - a real pain to fix as shims seem to
be the only way.
For those of you reading this thread, I have a question in regard to zero
clearance inserts. The table saw I have is a 35 year old Rockwell Beaver
34050. Cutting the outline of an insert is no problem, but I'm a little
stumped on a workable method to properly raise the insert flush with table
saw top. The metal insert I have has adjustable Allen screws which don't
seem all that workable in a home made wooden zero clearance insert.
How do you raise your insert?
 Drill holes for adjusters with a #7 drill bit.
 Tap 1/4-20
 Use a toothpick to smear a /tiny/ bit of silicone caulk on threads
 Insert Allen screw and adjust flush
 Allow time for caulk to set
I wondered about the use of the Allen screws in that regard. With the caulk
set, are they fixed in position or thread height adjustable? I was thinking
that using dowel in their stead, I could make them over-long and file them
off as needed to optimum length.
I've only done this one time, and the insert got lost in a long-past
move. Once I had it the way I wanted it I never tried to re-adjust. I'd
guess that I could've used Allen screws without the caulk.
Try your idea. It sounds workable, and if it doesn't pan out there's
always the Allen screw option. I haven't tapped wood very often, but
doing so hasn't produced problems for me.
Another option is to glue in a threaded brass insert or a Propel nut
(kinda like a T-nut without teeth), which would provide metal threads
for the Allen screws - but that'd be more expensive and take more
screwing [sorry] around.
I'm sure you've seen the brass inserts, and LV carries Propel nuts (I
used 'em for the Allen screws that level the table on my RAS - there's
a peek-a-boo photo at the link below)
Trap it with the fence so blade is at least 1/2" away from fence.
Use 1/4-20 socket head set screws for adjustment.
I make mine from 3 pieces of 1/4 hardboard held together with double
back tape, then sanded flush. No screws req'd.
Made mine from 1/2" UHMW PE with a dovetailed recess for 1/4"
replaceable inserts. Drilled and tapped holes for #6 setscrews in the
appropriate locations. Would work just as well with a hardwood body. I
frequently drill and tap UNC threads in hardwood and BB plywood.
I cut the insert (MDF) very close to the desired depth and then used tape
layers for a flush fit.....works fine but for my next go around I think I'll
try hot melt glue (should be less fiddle till its just right time), probably
wax or oil the saw side (no stick). A press fit before the glue hardens
should make a easy exact flush edge. Rod
I would go online and find the handbook or manual at the Sears site
and try to order the insert there. If no luck I would make one or try
another brand. My sister does woodwork and has made a few of them from
among other materials such as plastic, masonite and aluminum. irst
make a nice pattern from cardboard or the like. And save the pattern
for next time.
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