There's 6 to 10 inches of exposed concrete foundation going all the way around my house. About half of it is exposed to the soil and the other half is not because of concrete walkways etc.
This area needs some maintenance because there is some minor crumbling going on now. I want to patch it and then paint it and need some advice on what materials to use.
Where are you located (climate) as that may be important.
If you can get to a stable surface, look into using one of the Mapei products like Planipatch.
Also the OP says "This area" but doesn't clarify which area he is referring to!
Also he is not saying surface spalling, or whether his seeing damage deeper. Maybe it was plastered and that is flaking off.
Pictures would have helped too.
I happily and deliberately top post by choice. I have not, do not, and will not ever see any logic to bottom posting and sending huge volumes of repeated information that must be viewed and scrolled through to see someone's response, often a non-contributing comment like "me too". If this is too big an issue for you, plonk me or don't read my posts. I usually only offer constructive information in areas in which I am quite expert, I'm a little bit sorry to waste time on this top post/bottom post drivel and will not continue.
The OP indicated he had some crumbling concrete. I stated that if he could scratch, dig, scrape, or chip his way to fairly sound concrete that there are two products that excel at bonding to old, vertical, exterior concrete and will stand quite a test of time. I don't need to see his wall, I don't care if it had been parge coated in the past (probably never plastered - maybe stuccoed), Planipatch and JetSet are not affected by freeze/thaw any more than any other concrete material. Planipatch and JetSet don't care if they are applied thin on the surface or deep in a structural repair. I have used both products and they have performed faultlessly in multiple circumstances up to and including replacing some stair noses that had broken off due to moisture in the rebar. If he is looking for something that will bond to his stuff, I gave him the required information.
If posters would snip their replies, this would not happen.
Bottom posted example:
.Mary wrote: .>Sam wrote: .>>Henry wrote: .>>>Elizabeth wrote: .>>>How do I stop my cat eating the furniture? .>>Have you tried putting a velcro cover on? .>That's ok if you do not have children, but they tear the .>velcro - what then? .Try guaranteed child-proof super-velcro: I have been using it ever .since I had my fourth child - and my sixth cat.
See how easy the thread and comments/replies are to read? Now, using top posting:
.>>>Elizabeth wrote: .>>Henry wrote: .>Sam wrote: .Mary wrote: .Try guaranteed child-proof super-velcro: I have been using it ever .since I had my fourth child - and my sixth cat. .>That's ok if you do not have children, but they tear the velcro .>- what then? .>>Have you tried putting a velcro cover on? .>>>How do I stop my cat eating the furniture?
Now see how difficult the top posted example is to follow?
And, I only plonk people who really deserve it. Bad manners doesn't qualify, if you want me to plonk you, you have to call me a really bad name.
I have never, ever, understood the fetish some folks have about top-posting. Clearly, it should be the preferred method, as it makes more sense. For that reason, I will always follow that format.
James
These people should trim their posts to the part they are replying to. Top posting without including any reply text sometimes makes it harder to tell which point in the reply they are addressing, nor it follows the normal Q&A format.
A: Because it reverses the logical flow of conversation. Q: Why is top posting frowned upon?
not
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A: Because it reverses the logical flow of conversation. Q: Why is top posting frowned upon?
Well, the desirability has been shown, and if people don't understand why it is best to bottom post, so be it. People also should know not to drink and drive, jump out of planes without working tested chutes, etc., but don't always follow through.
Often simple politeness makes the most sense. If 99% of the people in a group do something one way it is just impolite and rude to make a declaration that some other way "makes more sense" as your justification for doing it contrary to the usual method.
Hi James.... Not sure if I am bottom or top posting, and have never been criticized in any news group I have been in. this is a first. Can you explain to me what I did wrong for you to get all bothered?
I just replyed to a message that was sent to the group with a simple reply to group.
If there were different opinions or questions like "IMO, hardwood is the best for this application", or "IMO, Plywood is the best for this application", and another top posted with reply like "me too" or "I agree", etc., one has to scroll to the bottom to see which opinion or question they are agreeing with. Typically, top posters include a full quote, so scrolling the full length of the quote is required. I guess this can be abused by both top and bottom posters. I guess there is no one size fits all.
John, read my reply with the two examples and maybe you can see what I'm talking about.
Nice thing about this group is that we are all civilized, and (so far) are not throwing rocks and bottles at each other!
No problem John, your posting is just fine.
James
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Hi James.... Not sure if I am bottom or top posting, and have never been criticized in any news group I have been in. this is a first. Can you explain to me what I did wrong for you to get all bothered?
I just replyed to a message that was sent to the group with a simple reply to group.
sorry..... john
Sorry I didn't get back here sooner to see your question. I live in a warm, dry climate. Practically a desert, but it does rain once in a while. The house is close to 40 years old.
Planipatch is for horizontal applications and interior use only, but I see they have other products that might do the trick.
I can get it to a stable surface but there are some craters with the biggest up to about 1/2 in deep and maybe 4 in wide.
My concern is that the patching job won't last. I see patched driveways all the time where the patch material has failed completely.
Acid rain attacks concrete in wet urban areas, but it sounds like you actually might have concrete dehydrating (the water-of- crystallization removed by age). There are some treatments (in fireboxes, using sodium silicate helps), but basically, just wet it down a few times a year.
A bad concrete mixture can have sandy pockets. Forty years ago, how likely was your area to have high standards and readymix trucks delivering fresh concrete to specification?
That I couldn't tell you for certain, but given the era I'd say the quality of delivered concrete might well have varied.
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