Panel Edge Glue-ups Without Jointing?

[-MIKE-]

I'm getting ready to glue up some panels for an electronics rack case I'm building for a client. The longest panels will be 42".

In what I think was a table saw thread, maybe a year ago, someone mentioned that they get a glue-up-ready edge joint with their table saw. I do have a jointer, but I also have a good table saw with a good blade, a long rip fence and a long outfeed table.

Any of you guys remember writing that? Anyone else glue up panels with the saw cut alone? Is there a better saw blade for this?

[Ed Pawlowski]

Tablesaw is the only way I've ever glued up a panel. With a good blade, I don't see the need for jointing. My blade is a Ridge Carbide, but I'm sure many others leave a good finish also.

[Swingman]

Freud makes a "glue line rip" blade that, IME, does just that.

Although I am partial to using a jointer for preparing edges for panel glue up so that I can swap opposing edges to take advantage of complimentary angles, thereby neutralizing even the slightest deviation from 90 degrees in tool setup, I have used just the Freud blade for smaller panels with excellent results.

[-MIKE-]

You may have been the poster I was thinking about, Ed.

[-MIKE-]

I've been looking at that blade. It doesn't seem too expensive, especially considering I don't have a great rip-only blade.

[J. Clarke]

Forrest Woodworker II is the standard.

I use an Oldham (now sold as Porter-Cable) Signature which does fine.

If you're working with stock less than 1 inch thick and are willing to go with separate blades for rip and crosscut, the Freud LU85 and LM74 for crosscut and rip respectively would be good choices--Freud says that they do better than the Freud rip and crosscut blades that I have and the ones I have do a fine job.

[Robert Haar]

It wasn't me, but I do glue ups with edges directly from the table saw. What it requires is a good blade (Forrest WWII for me) and careful alignment of the saw.

Note that you do need a good straight edge to run against the saw fence. A jointer can be helpful in getting that starting point. You can achieve the same thing with a sled that holds the board straight for the initial cut, but that takes a bit of work to set up. Or you can go back to hand tools and use a plane.

[dpb]

Swingman wrote: ...

What he said (on both counts)...

:)

--

[Steve Turner]

I do it all the time with a Forrest Woodworker II mounted in my finely tuned Unisaw, and never think twice about it.

[Leon]

I only use the TS and had a jointer for about 25 years. I never used the jointer, so to speak and got rid of it about 6 months ago.

IMHO for the most part it is hard to run an 8' board through common sized jointers. If my board is not straight I use a sled to straighten the edge on my TS. Typically my TS edges come out better than they ever did from my jointer.

[routerman]

[-MIKE-]

I have a high-tooth Freud on there, now which has served me very well. I can get that LM74 for under 60 bucks, but have been looking for an excuse to get a WWII.

Are you saying the WWII will have as good a finish as the LM74?

[John]

I have to say that I find this whole thread surprising. I've never used a jointer for glue up edges. The thought that you might need one for every cut...

For the OP, here's a suggestion (and I know I'm going to get flamed for it, but it's true...) -- you mentioned the length of your cuts which makes me think you may have an issue with support for long pieces on your table saw, which may be leading to some of your problems. For really long and accurate cuts, I actually end up using my circular saw and jig... I support my piece on a couple sheets of MDF, which is suspended above the ground by some 2x4's. I clamp on my jig,and make the cut. Because my jig is made from MDF as well, I know the cut will be perfectly straight. So long as it's clamped to the cut piece securely, and I'm careful to hold the saw properly, I can make multiple repeated cuts, that are, quite frankly, dead on. With a good blade, the cut is perfectly smooth (within .1mm I'm sure).

If the board warps as the previous poster mentioned, you can simply use clamps to compensate while gluing up. Once the glue dries, it shouldn't be an issue.

(and let the flames begin...)

John

[Swingman]

Once you own a WWII you will never need an excuse to buy another. AAMOF, I have two, and another is on my shopping list as we speak.

The two I will send two back for re-sharpening soon are going on eight to ten years old and I felt it was time to spring for a new one with a new job coming up.

As long as they continue to keep their old fashioned "Made in USA" quality, my shop will never be without a Forrest WWII ...

[-MIKE-]

Is that a yes on the glue line, then? :-)

[Swingman]

Well, the WWII is a "combination" blade, optimized as an all purpose blade that does an exceptional job either ripping or crosscutting.

The Freud Glue Line Rip is optimized, in tooth pattern and setting, specifically for ripping, as well as for getting an exceptional cut.

In actual practice, and IME, either blade will work fine in most stock for making glue line ready rip cuts.

That said, not all stock is the same and, particularly with thicker hardwoods, I firmly believe that a high quality, dedicated "rip" blade is the best tool for the job if you're not going to use the jointer.

When I spend a thousand dollars on material on a project, I want every single advantage I can reasonably buy ... thus my preference for the jointer in this situation; followed closely by the Freud GLR.

I would use the WWII and would more or less feel comfortable doing so, but it would not be the first tool I would reach for.

The difference between mediocrity and supremacy is attention to detail.

[-MIKE-]

I actually mentioned that I do have a long outfeed table. There are no problems. I'm asking because I now *have* good equipment and don't want to take extra, unnecessary, steps, if the saw will do the trick, alone.

That's the technique I used before I had a good table saw. I still have the jigs for cutting panels on site, when I don't have a table saw, or for rough cutting panels my little shop.

[-MIKE-]

Forgive my density. :-) You say, "jointer...followed...by the Freud GLR" Are you saying the jointer to straighten one edge, then saw to width, and glue?

[-MIKE-]

I think it's a unanimous verdict from the jury. Thanks guys.

[Swingman]

No ... with critical panel glue-ups in expensive stock, and once the stock is correctly dimensioned to project spec, _I_ prefer to use _only_ the jointer to prepare the edges of the stock for glue-up.

The reason I do this as already been stated ... I personally have gotten the best results with this method down through the years. The theory has always been proven in the results for my way of working. YMMV ...

Leon is one of the finest cabinet/furniture makers I have ever had the pleasure of knowing/working with.

His preference is completely different than mine in this regard, but you can't argue with our respective results despite the different preference in methods.

Whatever works for you ...