You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in the curve.
You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in the curve.
I guess I'm picturing this correctly. However, with what Robo says about the top surface, that may not work out correctly. Of course, I'm not sure it would matter for wood... maybe it would. (pun)
You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90=B0 to the surface. If you do anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges, lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as tight as possible. Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.
It is all about that top surface. Whatever happens to the bottom edge would be in variance to the thickness accuracy.
Only if the thickness is in perfect increments of .125"
In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the "system."
I have also used the 'system' to butt-join laminated countertops with very good results.
up the offset?
-- Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman
The base has the offset. Half of it is .125 higher.
Makes me want to go find some solid surface material to play with. I'm sure I can find a use for this somewhere down the line ... an answer looking for a question.
That's the urge I'm trying to resist. :-)
An elegant solution has an allure of its own ...
But but but it works for everything. I have taken a 4x8 sheet of cherry veneer and cut it crosswise into 3 pieces and wavybitted the three pieces together to face a sit-down bar. You can see that on my old website
what??? you scaredycat?
A solution looking for a problem. I get those a lot. :-)
No. :-) I'm schedule bound.
schedule schmedule
"Larry Jaques" wrote
Flatness while mating. Isn't that what they used to call the Methodist position?
Max
I've always used just a saw cut, and check the gap before gluing by laying out the boards and trial fitting them. In the rare case that their is some adjustment needed (Saw blade is a WW2, so it is pretty rare) I use my 22 inch jointer to straighten that edge. (Jointer made by Stanley)
Can you give a link to the manual? I couldn't find it.
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