I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing. I'm ready to spring for
a good ripping blade, but there are so many choices. Freud alone must
have 6 or 8 blades they recommend for glue line ripping.
I searched the web and Fine Woodworking for rip saw blade reviews, but
I didn't find anything. If you have nay personal recommendations for
or against a particular blade, I'd love to hear them.
Blade's as good as your saw in a lot of ways.
More teeth make better cuts if you have a good fence and a good arbor - and
lots of power. Geometry of the much-revered Woodworker II or the
less-touted Freud and Oldham (and others I haven't tried) is normally about
50 teeth. Should do 3/4 maple on a 1.5 HP saw, all things being equal.
I'm such a dinosaur I automatically join a fresh edge, though the days of my
30-tooth all steel rip blade are long past. Still have one of the old steel
hollow-ground blades, and it's top-notch, but getting tough to find
Eh? More teeth would make it a good cross cut (miter/mitre
David) blade. From all I've come to know and respect a good
glue line rip blade is way down on number of teeth embedded
in the wood at one time.
More teeth = slow feed rate while ripping and burning.
You are right about more teeth requiring more power.
Of course I could be wrong but given the myths stated here
(PVC dust collection starts fires/band saw wheels and
coplanar/tipping your rip fence out away from the back edge
of the blade) lately I'm thinking maybe we should get back
to quoting the text and not passing along links to The
both the Forrest WWII and the Freud double melamine blades do super
smooth cuts. those are the only two I can vouch for. I'm willing to
bet there are a whole lot more blades out there up to the task. Since
those 2 blades work so well for me, I'm not gonna try any others, at
Ed Bailen wrote:
For lots of ripping of hardwoods, I prefer a Freud Industrial or
Systematic rip blade over my WWII.
The WWII rips fine, with a very occasional burn, usually due to me
swapping hands or stopping for some other reason. I find the
dedicated rip blades faster and easier to use if I've got a lot to do.
Just a couple to do? I leave the WWII on the saw.
I've had great luck with CMT sawblades. They have a 10" 60 tooth
"cabinetmakers" blade that I get great performance from for general use and
has been to the sharpening shop twice and comes back for more. I have no
reservation recommending it for glue joints. I do also have a Woodworker II
but it's so expensive I tend to save it for only the most critical cuts,
hands down the best blade I've got in the 10" collection. Here is also a
review from shopnotes I found.
Eric, I must be a lot more lazy than you because I had every intention
of putting in the WWII for the "special" cuts. No way can I do that; it
stays in the TS unless I cut melamine and then I put in the Freud double
sided melamine blade to avoid ALL chip out. I don't have the patience
to keep changing blades. Besides, NOT using the WWII is kinda like
putting plastic wrap on your sofa. :)
Eric Johnson wrote:
No doubt, I love it. Lock and key for 2 reasons.
I have several thousand Bd ft of reclaimed walnut in the storage shed that
came from an old barn that most of my projects have been made from lately. I
do my best with the metal detector but...
I have one of the more well equiped shops around and have frequent "can I
quick do this" types stopping in. You know the folks I mean, the ones when
the works done and equipment is shut down you hand 'em a bud light and
save the Moosehead for yourself .
CMT general blade very good. Tenryu general purpose outstanding. These
blades have a lot of teeth for ripping; I like a dedicated rip blade
with more like 20 teeth; cheaper to sharpen as well as low feed
pressure with a 15 to 20 degree hook. Freud "glue line rip" good.Howe
We sell the Freud line of blades, so you can take this for what it is worth.
The Freud LM74 Anti-Vibe Glue Line rip blade is as fine a rip blade as you
are likely to find. Freud's anti-vibe technology and solid understanding of
the cutting geometry required to obtain perfect cuts has made this my first
choice. Rip blades have deep gullets and fewer teeth than cross cut blades
so that the long stringy chips created don't end up getting cut and recut,
or plugging in shallower gullets.
I haven't tried it myself, but Freud's demonstration of this blade involved
ripping 1/8" thick strips off the edge of an oak board, then reassembling
them. I was difficult to see where one piece started and the next one ended.
Feel free to talk to my Technical Director, Darin Lawrence at 1-800-443-7937
for additioal information.
Jim Ray, President
McFeely's Square Drive Screws
email SPAM countermeasures require removal of allnails to reply
I've got a Freud 30 tooth finish rip blade that does a marvelous job. IIRC<
DeWalt has recently come out with a 40 tooth rip blade, but I've not used it.
Any good 24 or 30 tooth 10" rip blade should work just fine.
"To create man was a quaint and original idea, but to add the sheep was
tautology." Mark Twain's Notebook
On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 16:39:56 -0800, Dave Fleming <> scribbled:
BTDT. Clamp a bunch of them together face to face. Make sure the
clamps are shorter than the planer is wide, and that there's no chance
of the blades hitting the clamps
Note the new email address.
Please adjust your krillfiles (tmAD) accordingly
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
Actually, Luigi, since the ripped pieces are about 1x2, I just gang a
bunch of them face to face as you described and run them through
For planks with a higher aspect ratio, I made a sled out of MDF with a
vertical riser dadoed in at a precise 90-degree angle. I clamp the
thinner planks to the riser to clean up the riped face.
Read up on glue line ripping by doing a Google search. It's worth the
I use a Leuco Glue Line Blade (been using the same blade for ten years
and never needed to do more than a tune up with a diamond hone) and,
when doing repetitive cuts, I move the stock feeder from it's normal
position on the shaper to the tablesaw, so as to eliminate the feed
It's important to set the blade up dead parallel to the fence and it's
more important that the fence not move or flex under feed pressure.
Experiment with blade heights before doing your production run. The
blade height/angle of attack has a lot to do with the result.
Once you are set up it is easy to get nearly jointer quality rips out
of the tablesaur, providing that you ignore the people who say that
the fence should be kicked out 1/64" (a huge amount) from front to
The fence shoulf be as parallel to the cutting plane of the blade as
is humanly possible and your stock prep should have already taken care
of bows and bellies.
Hoadley is good on the understanding of joint edge quality in relation
to gluing. I don't have his current version but the old one is very
informative on this.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
<'nuther severe snip>
Good advice ***if** using a powered feeder but, for hand feeding I
have been sucessful with using the thickness of a Bicycle playing card
approx. .010 to .011 of an inch, as a guage for the distance away
from the blade at rear of fence.
And no matter what ,if you even think there might be some deflection
from either way....Backup that rear clamp as best you can!!!!!!!
Best blade you can buy is none too good.
Lietz, Leuco, Guido, are my favourites.
Had an old North American Carbide that was ACES but somehow it took a
walk one fine day and hasn't come back, sigh.
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