Yeah, I know that there is a lot out there on this, but I just have to
ask about my specific issue. I'm trying to rip maple for face frames.
Delta Unisaw, Woodworker II blade. And it's burning the edge. I
played around with fence alignment with no real improvement. So, I
tried an old Freud combo blade. Better, but still a little burn. Then
I tried (what do I have to lose?) an old Freud F-80 CROSSCUT blade and
got a very nice cut with no burn. Then I took a razor blade and
scrapped the gunk off the sides of every tooth on the Woodworker II.
The blade still burned the wood, no improvement. So I'm thinking that
there is a problem with the Woodworker II but can't figure out what it
would be. Suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Fewer teeth make for a better rip in maple, as well as a faster feed
rate. It's easy stuff to burn- I'm actually sort of surprised you got
your best cut off the freud 80t blade. That's the one that always
burns my maple if I don't change it.
My initial reaction would be that, if your idea of cleaning your WWII
is scrapping the sides of the teeth, your blade is probably in need of
a real cleaning (possibly even a sharpening, but I would try a
cleaning first). Many opinions on this site about what to use. I use
Simple Green and a toothbrush. I have an old christmas cookie tray
that is just the right size for a 10" blade. Pour some Simple Green
in, set the blade in making sure that it is fully covered, let it sit
for 10 minutes to 10 hours (i.e. either clean the blade now or in the
morning, usually now), brush all of the teeth (fronts, tps and sides),
rinse, dry and wax.
Another neat thing to use for the cleaning solution is either a 5 gal
bucket or one of those short buckets that the 3" chlorine pucks come
in (for pool sanitation). With the chlorine bucket, make sure it's
really rinsed out well before being used.
When using either type of bucket, you want one that has a lid. In
this way, you can reuse the cleaner multiple times and keep out
dirt and debris. With either type of bucket a 10" saw blade fits
in very nicely on the bottom with just a bit of space around the
outside of the blade. Because of this, it doesn't take a whole lot
of cleaner to cover the blade. Ideally you probably want to fill
up the bucket to a depth of 1" or so.
Once the blade is sitting in the bucket, in the solution, it can
be a little tricky to get it back out again. One thing you can do
to help with that and to insure the bottom of the blade gets a good
soak too, is put something thin, flat and doesn't float on the
bottom. Ideally this object should have a diameter smaller than
10". I used a piece of plastic that was used for packing something.
This makes it easy to poke my finger through the arbor hole to grab
the blade out of the solution.
When I'm done, I just put the lid back on until next time.
Another benefit of this, is having the container of cleaner readily
available. I dip a toothbrush in after using router and forstner
bits to clean them up. The bits can soak in there as well, if they're
gummed up enough.
If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
Tom in PA wrote:
| Yeah, I know that there is a lot out there on this, but I just have
| to ask about my specific issue. I'm trying to rip maple for face
| frames. Delta Unisaw, Woodworker II blade. And it's burning the
| edge. I played around with fence alignment with no real
| improvement. So, I tried an old Freud combo blade. Better, but
| still a little burn. Then I tried (what do I have to lose?) an old
| Freud F-80 CROSSCUT blade and got a very nice cut with no burn.
| Then I took a razor blade and scrapped the gunk off the sides of
| every tooth on the Woodworker II. The blade still burned the wood,
| no improvement. So I'm thinking that there is a problem with the
| Woodworker II but can't figure out what it would be. Suggestions?
The burning is a consequence of friction-produced heat. I've routinely
ripped maple with an Olson 100-tooth blade on my Unisaw, and as long
as I keep the feed up to a reasonable speed, it doesn't burn.
Fewer teeth is probably better, but sharp and clean are essential.
Keep the feed rate up so that heat can be carried away by the sawdust.
DeSoto, Iowa USA
going against the grain of what others have posted I had this problem with
my WWII on cherry and maple (but not on other softer woods) until I bought
the TS aligner and reset my saw. No more burning after proper alignment.
Nope, they're just presuming proper alignment, which is easy to get even
with touch gages. It's probably uneven feed pressure or case-hardening.
When a guy has an expensive saw, I suppose we assume he'd set it up
As to more versus less teeth, more takes smaller bites, and might not be
dragging those long pieces of carbide on the edge of the kerf. Assuming
carbide, dust removal isn't much of a problem, because the natural hollow
ground effect moves dust well before it can pack and cause squirm and burn.
He didn't mention which, but fence converging aft or heel right will burn
the fenced piece with fence on right. Heel left will burn the non-fenced.
Wood problems tend to be random left and right.
One other thing sprang to mind- how far are you setting the blade
above the top face of the wood? Generally speaking, I keep mine so
that only a tooth's height protrudes in the interest of safety (Yes, I
am aware that there is an argument that that increases the chances of
kickback)- but with maple, I let it run at least an inch above the top
of the wood. Seems like that little bit of extra time out of the wood
is enough to let the teeth cool down a little.
Is that directed at me or the OP?
If me, then yes, the alignment is correct, and no, I don't have burn
or buildup with other woods. If I had to guess, I'd maybe say the
hard maple has some leftover sugar content from the sap, but I'd
probably be wrong- most likely, it's just a matter of not feeding fast
Thanks, everyone, for the replies! (I'm the OP) I cleaned up the
blade with simple green and also raised the blade height. Results are
still not perfect but MUCH better! Also, once this project is
complete, I'll sent the blade off for a re-sharpening, as I have had
it a while.
I also cleaned off a couple of Freud blades as long as I had the
cleaner set up (I used an big old pot my wife used to use for canning
to soak the blades in.... it was the perfect diameter and also had
ribs on the bottom which kept the lower portion of the teeth off the
bottom of the pot). On the Freud blades, it not only cleaned the
blades but also took off all of the labels. Oh well.
Thanks again........ Tom in PA
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