What saw blades do you use?

Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in each?

Thanks

Reply to
SBH
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Forrest Woodworker II in the TS and RAS. The chopsaw just has the stock blade that came with it -- but then, the chopsaw never gets used for any fine woodworking, just cutting 2x lumber to size.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Perhaps I should elaborate.

What type of blade? Ex: Crosscut blade, Thin Kerf Blade, Rip blade, etc.

Thanks

Reply to
SBH

That would be, types of blades.

Reply to
SBH

TS has a WWII for finish cuts, whether rips or crosses. If I have a lot of either to do (especially ripping), I'll switch to a dedicated ripping blade. Nothing fancy there, I think it's a freud.

don't own a ras.

Mitre saw. Currently has a rough carpentry blade on it, good for tubbafors, chopping offcuts into kindling and little else. If I'm doing molding, I'll put on a 60 tooth (it's a 12").

HTH's,

jc

Reply to
Joe

On the TS I use the Freud 24 tooth thin kerf rip or 30 tooth glue-line rip for most of my fine work. I use a Forrest Woodworker II 30 tooth for ripping thick hardwood. I use an 80 tooth Freud for cross cutting on the TS.

My biggest advice would be to say don't use a combo blade. Get a blade for rippping and a blade for cross cut on the TS.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

OK - I just gotta go for the low hanging fruit.

"The appropriate one?"

Reply to
Doug Brown

TS: Forrest WW II (20 degree (?) hook, 40 tooth combo blade) RAS: Forrest WW I (-5 degree hook, 60 tooth combo blade) MS: Disston 20" backsaw with ~15 TPI with light set in a very old, very heavy Stanley miter box

Reply to
Roy

Delta Unisaw (Great White): Leitz 10X40 AT&R blade. Backup: 2 - Delta 10X 60 's

DeWalt 12" Mitersaw: DeWalt 12 X 40 and 12 X 60 blades

No RAS

Reply to
Rudy

TS - 24 tooth thin rip. Thin because I often cut tape for edging and I hate to waste wood :)

RAS - 40 tooth ATB

Reply to
dadiOH

Freud P410, Freud P410 and Freud P410. Works for me.

Max

Reply to
Max

Well, in my chop saw, a cross cut blade. In my table saw, if I'm ripping a rip blade. If I'm doing a bunch of crosscuts with the sled, a crosscut blade.

I have a thin kerf rip blade that I might use if there's a reason to need to save a sixteenth per cut.

Reply to
Dave Balderstone

Correction: WWII in the TS, WWI in the RAS

The Woodworker II is a combination blade, WWI is a crosscut. And of course the blade in the chop saw is a crosscut.

Thin-kerf blades are not needed except on underpowered saws.

Reply to
Doug Miller

In my tablesaw, a Freud Fusion combination blade. It's an ATB. It cuts as smooth, if not smoother, than a Forrest. But I do wish it was an ATBR, I don't like the V bottom on non-through cuts.

Never had or wanted a RAS. Chop saws are great for high volume repetitive work, but as a hobbyist I can't justify one. If I can't do it on a table saw, a bandsaw, or a scroll saw, it's time for the hand tools :-).

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

I have use a bunch of blades over the last 30 years, I have setteled on Forrest.

I only use a Forrest WW2 regular Kerf 40 thooth blade in my TS. I have 2 so that when one is out being resharpened I don't have to do without.

This blade comes in thin kerf but I would not recomend it for best results.

This blade does perfect rips, cross cuts, miter cuts, bevel cuts and compound angle cuts. Basically with this blade and a properly set up TS you do not need another blade for cutting.

I have a Forrest DadoKing for dado's.

I would use a Forrest WW 1 for my RAS if I still hade it.

I would use a Forrest ChopMaster for a miter saw.

Reply to
Leon

It's an ATB. But I do wish it was an ATBR,

Nice, detailed response. I read the posts as I was interested in blade recommendations from serious folks.

I've all three saws mentioned and have quite a selection of 10" blades (and a smaller selection of 12" blades for my, relatively new, Miter Saw).

In the past, my criteria was the number of carbide teeth offered per dollar(s) $pent. And, I suspect, I've owned as many combination blades as not - but I honestly don't know.

The ATB / ATBR nomemclature caught my eye as a feature I know to little about but know I need learn and would appreciate any lessons shared here.

Funny thing, I think I starte with a "chop saw" as I called my Miter Saw when I first got it. Then, I beleive I got the RAS and then my first Table Saw.

I suspect I managed to employ each to do things no "respectable" woodworker would use them for and "hand tools" were always a bit too time consuming for my proects.

(from what I read here) Ripping blades seem best for the TS's "default" blade and Cross Cut blades for the RAS and Miter Saws.

The Tooth Geometry mentioned here and elsewhere would appear to be independant of the tool and dependant upon the material or task. Any clarifications on these points would be appreiated.

Reply to
Hoosierpopi

In my table saw I use a HF 50 tooth carbide blade. Cuts straight, smooth on both rip and crosscut and is less than $20.00 I could get it sharpened, but why?

Deb

Reply to
Dr. Deb

ATB is alternate top bevel. Each tooth is beveled to the left or right. The following tooth is beveled in the other direction. As you can imagine, it cuts a v-shaped groove.

ATBR is alternate top bevel with raker. After a set of ATB teeth, usually 4, there is a tooth ground straight across which cleans out the V and leaves a flat bottom.

Normally, a Forrest WWII is an ATB. But they have a "special grind" version that is an ATBR. So far, Freud doesn't have one of those in their fusion line, although they do in some of their older models.

On a slightly different topic, it's been mentioned that you don't need a thin kerf blade unless your saw is underpowered. In the main that's true. But when cutting something like segments for segmented bowl turning it sure saves wood - one ring may easily require a hundred saw cuts.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

Thanks for the education on ATBR as well.

As for the thin kerf, is it also safe to assume they are used for TS bench top/portable models?

Reply to
SBH

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