Whenever I rip boards on my table saw the piece between the blade and the fence is perfectly smooth but the piece on the outside of the blade is always rough. I check the alignment of my saw blade and the fence alignment and both are dead on. Does anyone have any idea about what causes this problem and what I can do to fix it?
Rudy
Possible that side of the blade is damaged.
The offcut side has no other support to keep it steady/aligned and may move in and out against the blade slightly as you make the cut giving a rough edge perhaps?
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Blade alignment?? Low quality blade??
Watch this video (i found it useful anyway...)
Rudy, Do you have a General saw? If so that could be the problem.
Chris, I have a General contractor saw 50-185L M1. The arbor bracket pn 50175 is not machined corrrectly. The bearing holes and pivot hole are not parrallel. So the blade goes out of allignment when raising or lowering. If the blade is in allignment when set at 1" depth of cut, it will angle over to left at 3" depth of cut. If Rudy has the same condition the back of the blade will cut on the back side and give the described rough cut.
Dead on parallel, as in better than .001? Are you using a feather board "IN FRONT" of the blade? Are you using a Splitter? Does this happen with other types of wood? Are you using a premium quality blade?
the tooth pattern.
Of course, part of the problem could be your feed rate and push direction as well.
How the heck could having a General be the problem?
Chris
Technically you have a General International saw, not a General saw.
GI also makes many other saws, so does General.
Given that there are *many* people that have your saw and don't experience the same problem, it's likely not a design issue with that particular saw or that particular manufacturer.
That said, I would certainly consider it a defect in your saw. Have you talked to GI and described your problem?
Chris
A featherboard might help, too.
The bearing holes and pivot hole are not parrallel<
I agree. Need to check the mechanism for alignment at all settings. The blade must be exactly parallel with the table slots and at a perfect right angle to the table top to saw correctly, otherwise the trailing edge of the blade will make the cut ragged. Sort of visualize pushing a Skilsaw through a board while cocking the saw right or left. Makes a really lousy cut. Bugs
Well, minor point, but if the fenced side's smooth, as the OP said, it isn't anything you guys are discussing. It's the stock, not the blade under those circumstances.
I have a Jet cabinet saw with a Forrest Woodworker II Blade and I have check the blade alignment with the table saw aligner Jr.
Rudy
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