No More Oil Based Paint???

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Larry Jaques wrote:

Make sure you buy a comfortable mattress for the doghouse before you do.
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--John
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On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 05:17:41 GMT, patriarch

(to whom it may concern, I lost track of the attribution)
Method: Keep 2 cans of solvent cycled with a spare clean one. Wipe off the dirty brush on old newapaper to get the bulk of the paint off. Then dip into the first can of solvent vigorously. This cleans off the bulk of the paint you missed with the paper. Now wipe on newspaper again to dry and remove more paint. Next dip into the second clean can of solvent, rinsing clean. Hang dry.
After the paint settles in both cans, decant into the 3rd can for reuse. Let the first can dry out and it can be tossed into the garbage or recycled, as can the dried papers. Use the can of semi-used thinner as the first-dip can contents next time you need to clean up. Thinner can be reused quite a few times if you let it settle overnight.

Right about that time, I'd have said something like this:
"OK, Honey. Here are the keys and the CC. The car is in the driveway, the paint store is on 5th and Main, the ladder is still in the living room, and the paint supplies are on the floor next to the ladder. Have fun figuring out whatever it is that you want and then doing it. I'll be in the den watching the game/reading a good book/vegging out."
--
The State always moves slowly and grudgingly towards any purpose that
accrues to society's advantage, but moves rapidly and with alacrity
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Alky refers to the soy resins used in the paint not a dryer.
Roger

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I stand corrected....
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On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 22:19:55 GMT, "Leon"

I painted houses full time for a few years, mainly Victorians, back in the days when "NL" was still proudly known as National Lead Industries :-) Like you, we usually used oil on the outside, latex on the inside. Cleanup *was* quicker after oil but some of our customers didn't appreciate the smell. Since we used expensive brushes we had to clean well. . But nowadays most do-it-yourselfers are either going to throw away the brushes and rollers when they are done, or toss them out when they go to use them again a year or two later and find out that they're stiff because they weren't cleaned enough the last time around: they're usually cheap gear anyway. Couple that with the fact that oil paint is a pain to deal with on clothes, floors, and other things it's spilled on unless you deal with it right away, it's not surprising that box stores are phasing out oil paint.
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Use floor paint.

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mix a little water based poly into the paint this will harden the surface by quite a bit and it will not stick to anything.
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Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
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Steve Knight wrote:

That's a great idea. Any idea as to proportions or should I experimant.
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it seems the more the better. but since it waters down the paint it becomes a problem too. I usually added as much as I could till the paint just covered. the paint will dry faster and usually smoother too and far harder. I have used this method on walls too and it sure makes the plaint scrubbable.
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Sun, Nov 7, 2004, 4:03am (EST+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@knight-toolworks.com (SteveKnight) mix a little water based poly into the paint this will harden the surface by quite a bit and it will not stick to anything.
Interesting thought. I take it you've tried it then? How does it come out looking? Good? Bad? Indifferent?
And, yeah, I'll be trying it myself later on, but probably not right away, so would like to know your thoughts on appearance, when it's done.
JOAT Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell are my T-shirts?
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O

it looks the same as long as you use the right gloss level. but it usually lays down smoother with no brush marks. now if you could just buy the solids the poly is made from then it would not water down the paint (G)
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Sun, Nov 7, 2004, 6:06pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@knight-toolworks.com (SteveKnight) informs us: it looks the same as long as you use the right gloss level. but it usually lays down smoother with no brush marks. <snip>
Excellent. Now I know what I'm going to use for vehicle painting next time.
JOAT Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell are my T-shirts?
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Funny you should mention that. Sears Best Weatherbrater has Polyurethane in it now. It is GREAT paint and covers well. Flows well and goes a long way.

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I should get some money I thought of this 15 years ago.
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So how do you suggest repainting, when you get tired of Navajo Sand, or Antique White trim?
I don't believe that an Apollo 900 is quite THAT free from overspray.
If I could avoid brushing, I would. I've been a fan of airless since the late 70's, when I was introduced to the Binks Super Bee (sp?) by some painting pro friends of mine. But that was out of doors, and not on a windy day.
Enlighten me some more, oh experienced one! I have the interiors of two houses to repaint!
Patriarch
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On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 05:47:01 GMT, patriarch

We use my neighbors airless... not a lot more masking then you'd do with a brush and a lot faster... most of the painters that I've talked to only brush the trim if the client insists on it and will pay more..
Also, I might try that idea of adding water based poly... might give it an "oil base" feel....
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Find a paint store, a real paint store not a big box with a paint department and ask for Graham Paint. Highest quality alkyd paints I have ever used.
Roger

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Roger amd Missy Behnke wrote:

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Yah, but not one of my favorites. Go to one where the owner actually works in the store.

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Sun, Nov 7, 2004, 4:35am (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net (macdavis) says: <snip> "latex enamel"... right... sorta like hiring a "criminal attorney"
Now, what's that supposed to mean? I'm thinking "latex enamel" is the product of some PR dork, but there's lots of attorneys out there that are criminals.
JOAT Viet Nam, divorce, cancer. Been there, done that. Now, where the Hell are my T-shirts?
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