Maintenance on a Bosch 1617?


After being in a router table for two years it was getting difficult to adjust. I pulled it out and cleaned off some corrosion with steel wool. Its much better now. Any idea on how to prevent the corrosion? Boeshield?
Also... the switch broke; it took about 50 tries to get it to run. Although it was under warranty, the local repair shop wouldn't fix it because I bought it over the internet. Bosch would fix it, but the hassle of sending it to them was too much considering that the table had a switch. Well, now it won't turn on at all, so I wired around the switch. It works okay, but I wonder if the switches are available at a modest price anywhere. I expect Bosch charges about the same for the switch as the router.
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Toller wrote:

Toller,
I haven't been overly-impressed with the my 1617. My switch also went bad, but I called up Bosch to find a local shop that -would- repair it. Plus the fixed base never centers, even after buying the centering tool. I always have to center it manually, even after Bosch said they fixed it.
You can probably call Bosch for the switches and explain what you've gone through. Maybe they'll send you one or both for free. I doubt that they're going to be "normal" switches.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
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wrote:
... snip

How do you do that? I have a 1613 that is off-center and it is driving me nuts. I haven't seen any way to make any adjustments short of making my own base.

I've have some luck with Bosch. The plastic shield on the 1613 broke and they sent me one (either for nothing, or very low cost, I know I was not at all unhappy with what they provided)
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
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Mark & Juanita wrote:

I don't know how the 1613 base works, but the screws in the 1617 base can go into one of two positions. The first (very) roughly centers the base. The second allows the base to be adjusted manually. I basically put the screws in the second position, and just iteratively refine the position.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
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wrote:

Thanks, I'll have a look to see if there's any hope there.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
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Toller wrote:

Do a Google using bosch+service+center to locate the bosch service center locator.
May cost you a phone call but that should be NBD.
Lew
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Toller wrote:

i have a 1617 that had pretty bad corrosion on the mag housing.i contacted the bosch national repair cener in nj and they agreed to fix it even though i had it for 3-4 yrs.turn around was about a week.the router came back with a new aluminum housing and i think a new switch although i never experienced a switch problem.total charge $0.00,just my cost to ship it to them.i would recommend contacting them.http://www.boschtools.com/product-services/contact-us /
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Is your table MDF?
My 1617's only corrode if I leave them inside my MDF table, making me wonder if there's some sort of chemical reaction. Different examples of the same model router stored 3 feet away in a rollaway haven't corroded.
Plain old paste wax has cured the problem for me.
Barry
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I have used Boeshild on my 1617, but it slows down the oxidation rather than preventing. I may try the paste wax someone else recommended.
I think the switch is a design flaw, considering so many people have the same problem. Mine would be a problem if I used it. I have the 1617 in a table and use an external switch leaving the 1617 switch permanently on. If I accidentally use the switch on the 1617 I have to fart around to get it to work again.
Sears is now selling what looks like a very similar router.
Other than the corrosion and switch, the unit has worked well and always been installed in the table. The collet end main bearing started to squeak during rundown. I have attempted to lubricate, but if this does not work, I expect to be looking for a new router.
The new Triton 2+ HP unit look interesting mostly because I may be able to achieve higher bit settings when mounted in the table.
Dave Paine.

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Look here and at part number 4. they cost $8.00 each http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/noframes.cgi/bosch/1617EVS.739
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Thanks, that's reasonable enough.
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I paste wax the inside of the base AND the outside of the router body and had NOT had any corrosion problems in the past 4-5yrs after seeing the body discolor and "corrode". I now do this with ALL my Bosch router
John

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Since mine have gotten really cruddy in a year, I guess I will follow your lead. Thanks.
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If your Bosch is one of the Magnesium bodied routers, I understand that Bosch has stopped using magnesium - most likely for just this reason. Call Bosch tech support and see what they say, I have heard of at least one person sending theirs in and getting it back with the current aluminum housing installed
John

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If anyone hates their 1617 and want to call it quits.... I'll buy a plunge base at a reasonable price.
Tom
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I followed someone's suggestion and contacted Bosch. They are sending me out a switch.
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Toller wrote:

SFWIW, I have found that working directly with a factory service center provides the best results.
That applies to Bosch, DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Porter-Cable who all have factory centers within 35 miles.
After all, if a concession is going to be made, they have the deepest pockets.
Lew
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