Gripper?

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On 8/17/2010 9:03 PM, dpb wrote:

<http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=STANDARDS&p_id 37>
1910.213(s)(14)
Operators shall not ride the carriage of a veneer slicer.
Damn ... took all the fun out it!
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Swingman wrote:

...
Snicker/snort... :)
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No, I haven't seen it. I did see a Biese riving knife today at Woodcraft, but I thought it was for the new Unisaw.

There is a difference.
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wrote:

Yeah the new Unisaw does have a riving knife but for 10+ years Biesemeyer has offered a removable splitter for 2 or 3 different brand saws including the Unisaws.
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On 8/18/2010 9:22 AM, Leon wrote:

Just FWIW, a riving knife is part of the new guard you get with the recall on Craftsman radial arm saws.
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wrote:

I thought you got $150 in exchange for the motor? My Crapsman has a splitter and plaws. How is the riving knife better?
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On 8/18/2010 5:08 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Rides up and down with the blade, therefore doesn't get in the way of push blocks toward the end of a cut like pawls can, and can generally be left on when doing non-through cuts ... the latter being as big a plus as the safety factor.
There might be more ...
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I understand how they differ on a table saw, but a RAS splitter does go up and down with the blade. It's part of the blade guard, mounted to the motor.

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wrote:

The workings of a riving knife on a TS are more complicated and I would have to imagine that it would have to be designed in, vs. being an add on.
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Perhaps, but this piece of the tread (and my question) concerned Crapsman RASs.
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"Leon" wrote:

---------------------------------- SFWIW, the local community college has fitted Unisaw, General & PM66 with the following:
Delta Anti-Kick-Back (78-968).
About $200 & change.
Snaps in and out as needed.
Sure makes life simple when you need it.
Lew
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On 8/18/2010 11:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

If you remove the plastic hoods on the old model stock unisaw blade guard, you end up with basically the same device. It doesn't snap in, and you still have to turn a built-in knurled knob to install it (takes all of ten seconds) but you end up with a sturdy, easily installed splitter that serves the main purposes behind using a splitter ... keeping reaction wood from binding the blade past the cut, and keeping stock from engaging the rear of the blade and being thrown back at the operator.
My personal preference is to also forgo the pawls, which in my opinion are no more than lip service to the manufacturer's morbid fear of liability/lawyers.
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87-431 = Biesemeyer splitter for left-tilt Unisaw

$171 here: http://www.mytoolstore.com/delta/tablaccs.html

Easy removal is one of its main advantages. BTW, the guard on my Unisaw needs a 1/2" open-end wrench to remove.

The plaws on my Crapsman RAS have saved the day. The Unisaw may be powerful enough to just chew them up and spit everything back out, though.
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$171 Yikes! Maybe, though. I'd use it a lot more than the full guard, which not only a PITA to install but makes life more difficult than it needs to be.
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Yes, it is pricey but it does solve problems.
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Yes, but it is in the "must think about" range. I do hate taking the factory guard on and off, though. This would solve that problem.
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wrote: it

Did you happen to see the MJ Splitter at the Gripper site. Simple small much less expensive, unless you compare pound for pound. ;~)
I have the Steel version as the "plastic" only version did not hold up.
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Sure, I'm on the second set of plastic MJ splitters. I broke the first set within days of installing them and I'm confident I can do it again so I bought a set of the "steel" splitters on my trip to Atlanta Tuesday (hadn't seen the steel version before). The kick plaws of the Biesemeyer splitter are very attractive, though. I could retire the stock guard.
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Sure, I'm on the second set of plastic MJ splitters. I broke the first set within days of installing them and I'm confident I can do it again so I bought a set of the "steel" splitters on my trip to Atlanta Tuesday (hadn't seen the steel version before). The kick plaws of the Biesemeyer splitter are very attractive, though. I could retire the stock guard.
I have actually had the steel set for about 3- 4 years. Oddly I only saw them at the WW show and they were only suggested to me after I mentioned that the all plastic ones did not hold up. It also seems that the steel ones only recently showed up on the web site. A word of caution, if the steel ones fit tightly don't use a hammer to tap them in. The plastic is more brittle, will fracture, and chip off. Use a dry lube on the holes if necessary.
Additionally, with the removable Biese splitter, you can not run the Gripper directly over the blade.
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Ah, good point. I wouldn't have thought of that until...
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