Has anyone used a Gripper on a table saw? Opinions? Peachtree has them for $42 (regularly $70). If they work, it's a pretty good deal.
They also have a good deal on "Board Mates" (a "Board Buddy" rip-off, I suppose).
It works, but you really need TWO for long stock. See their web site:
I bought the 2 fer package at a ww show several years back. I am not sure why I waited so long. You can build the equivalent but not so elegantly and they never seem to loose their grip.
They absolutely work. And if you cut thin stock there is 1/8" accesory piece that you can switch out for one of the 1/4" sides.
And, they can be repaired if you damage them.
Some assembly required.
Bought a couple because of swingman. Definitely worth the cost to have two of them.
Mike M
Check eBay - they have a package deal going.
R"Leon" wrote
Is there a place where they demonstrate the use of them better? I was unable to see the advantages of using one.
From what I saw, it is just a push block with rubber on the bottom. I gather there is more to it than that.
You probably won't want to take the advice of a "maroon", but I'll chime in anyway. They *absolutely* work and are _worth_every_penny_, especially at that price. As others have said GET TWO; you won't be sorry. And be sure the model you get has the "balance support" attachment; that's one of the handiest damn things I've ever used (I think that attachment comes with the base model, but I'd check to be sure).
Go the manufacutrer web site there are videos. It is just a push block but configurable and quickly adjusted.
Pusher shoes can be lined with good, old-fashioned sticky friction tape to increase grip. The tape holds its grip for a long time, way after the annoying snotlike stickiness dries up.
I guess I'll have to do some more research to see exactly what this package is. It's billed as the "Gripper 200 Advanced Model". Perhaps I'll order a couple (after checking eBay, too). Thanks, all!
Pusher shoes can be lined with good, old-fashioned sticky friction tape to increase grip. The tape holds its grip for a long time, way after the annoying snotlike stickiness dries up.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The Gripper is quite a bit more than a pusher shoe.
There is--gaps and adjustability. I got one a while back and am thinking about getting a second.
I've kept two around for years now, one for each hand on the jointer, when running stock over a dado stack, or on the router table. Excellent for ripping thin strips and smaller pieces with much more control.
Would not be without them. Highly adjustable, worth every penny, and they'll cut back dramatically on trips to the emergency room.
One last thing here, these things are meant to be sacrificial. As I mentioned earlier you buy and replace most any part.
That said there is a DVD that came with mine and is a very interesting video. IIRC it is 30-45 minutes and shows all the different applications. One that interested me in particular was the woodworker that cuts narrow veneer on his TS and uses the Gripper to act as a top side zero clearance insert. The slick smooth side of the gripper will ride along the side of your rip fence quite well. The gentleman use the gripper against the fence to insure that cut after cut the blade followed the same path through the gripper pad when cutting thin strops of veneer. Very interesting and effective.
You cut down on your number of trips to the ER, eh? How many fewer trips will I make if I stick to the regular $1.99 plastic/foam push tools?
Balance support = angle plate that bolts to the side. Keeps the gripper from rocking if used on narrow stock.
"Leon" wrote
UK, I poked around until I found some videos of the thing in use in enough detail to see how they work.
I have a couple comments.
They sell themselves hard on fuctionality, and I will admit that it looks like they do some pretty neat things. It looks like you would spend all your time setting up the push stick. Not for me, in most cases, I think. I know how to use a saw and different techniques without all the fuss.
Second point is that I will never be able to use them in my school woodworking shop setting. I have to use a factory, OSHA approved guard. Period. The gripper will in no way solve that problem.
Another comment is that the blade is still going to be left unguarded before and after the cut. In the two semi-serious shop table saw accidents I have been around (one was me at the very beginning of my woodworking, long long ago- the other was a student in my shop class) the accident would likely still have happened, because the problem took place after the cut.
Yes; if you're ripping a narrow piece that's taller than it is wide and the cutoff will also be too narrow for the second blade-straddling "leg" on the Gripper to rest, attaching the "balance support" (which extends down to the table surface) gives you back that second leg along with the stability it offers. Passing tall narrow pieces between the fence and blade is considerably more stable and safe with this arrangement as compared to traditional push stick jigs.
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