...a lot better than losing one without a Gripper.
...a lot better than losing one without a Gripper.
Sure, I'm on the second set of plastic MJ splitters. I broke the first set within days of installing them and I'm confident I can do it again so I bought a set of the "steel" splitters on my trip to Atlanta Tuesday (hadn't seen the steel version before). The kick plaws of the Biesemeyer splitter are very attractive, though. I could retire the stock guard.
I have actually had the steel set for about 3- 4 years. Oddly I only saw them at the WW show and they were only suggested to me after I mentioned that the all plastic ones did not hold up. It also seems that the steel ones only recently showed up on the web site. A word of caution, if the steel ones fit tightly don't use a hammer to tap them in. The plastic is more brittle, will fracture, and chip off. Use a dry lube on the holes if necessary.
Additionally, with the removable Biese splitter, you can not run the Gripper directly over the blade.
Ah, good point. I wouldn't have thought of that until...
Ah, good point. I wouldn't have thought of that until...
I meant to only bring that up as something to think about. The Biese splitter will not be an issue with the Gripper if you are ripping wider than the Gripper.
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Scrap wood bin. Cost =3D negligable to nothing.
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I'd hate to run my hand _or_ $69.95.
87-431 = Biesemeyer splitter for left-tilt Unisaw
$171 here:
Easy removal is one of its main advantages. BTW, the guard on my Unisaw needs a 1/2" open-end wrench to remove.
The plaws on my Crapsman RAS have saved the day. The Unisaw may be powerful enough to just chew them up and spit everything back out, though.
Yes, it certainly is something to think about. Thanks! I decided to buy a pair of Grippers just *for* the narrow work, though.
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They were advertised at $41.99 in the Peachtree emailing recently, though they're back-ordered. The parts are replaceable, though also not cheap.
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Scrap wood bin. Cost = negligable to nothing.
That is what I use'ta say...
Keep in mind also, typically you don't damage a part with a single cut. It takes several cuts before you may consider replacing a part.
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I do have a kerf in mine. Works just as though. I put off buying one for about a year thinking that it was expensive for a push block and have many "slick devices" that were a waste of money. Since I saw nothing but positive reviews, I finally broke down and bought. Don't regret it a bit. Well worth the money. And that kerf I have in mine? Better it than my hand.
Sure, I expected that. It seems that some don't mind their Gripper being sacrificial.
It's "sacrificial" nature is the reason why I use mine. Better it, than me. :)
rote:
I guess the issue is whether people would sacrifice the Gripper for the cut (plan on notching it), or not. The whole saw could be sacrificed for my hand, if it would help.
I just took it for granted that that's why the spacers that do the actual gripping were replaceable.
AAMOF, I've used what used to be the 1/8" Gripper spacer block, when making 1/4" edge banding strips for shelf fronts, etc, for so long, and so hard, that it is now about a 1/32" +/- spacer. :)
I was just trying to clarify the issue at hand.
We'll see. They shipped them today. I still have a couple of weeks to wait to use the tools again, though.
I think it is the feel and the grip that makes it such a pleasure to use over a make shift push "what ever". I did find that if you have the middle leg spaced about 5/16" over form an outer leg you can loose a pencil in there.... I wonder how long that pencil has been in there, I though to myself this afternoon. ;~)
On the DVD a gentleman that cuts veneers on his TS purposely sacrifices his Gripper for that purpose. "Zero Clearance"
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