Just FWIW, a riving knife is part of the new guard you get with the recall on Craftsman radial arm saws.
Just FWIW, a riving knife is part of the new guard you get with the recall on Craftsman radial arm saws.
$171 Yikes! Maybe, though. I'd use it a lot more than the full guard, which not only a PITA to install but makes life more difficult than it needs to be.
I thought you got $150 in exchange for the motor? My Crapsman has a splitter and plaws. How is the riving knife better?
Rides up and down with the blade, therefore doesn't get in the way of push blocks toward the end of a cut like pawls can, and can generally be left on when doing non-through cuts ... the latter being as big a plus as the safety factor.
There might be more ...
Gripper?
I hardly know her!
I understand how they differ on a table saw, but a RAS splitter does go up and down with the blade. It's part of the blade guard, mounted to the motor.
That makes a lot more sense. UL compliance is completely voluntary, so it's in no way a "mandate". ...not that I wouldn't put it past Congress or their bureaucratic minions to do such a thing.
It does look rather nicely made. So much so that I'd *hate* to run it into the blade.
Sounds like a great description for a great date!
I hardly know her!
Yes, it is pricey but it does solve problems.
The workings of a riving knife on a TS are more complicated and I would have to imagine that it would have to be designed in, vs. being an add on.
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to run it into the blade.
Like a fender on a car parts are replacable. ;~)
Perhaps, but this piece of the tread (and my question) concerned Crapsman RASs.
Yes, but it is in the "must think about" range. I do hate taking the factory guard on and off, though. This would solve that problem.
---------------------------------- SFWIW, the local community college has fitted Unisaw, General & PM66 with the following:
Delta Anti-Kick-Back (78-968).
About $200 & change.
Snaps in and out as needed.
Sure makes life simple when you need it.
Lew
Go out there and win this one for the Gripper!
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to run it into the blade.
------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'd hate to run my hand into the blade ...
If you remove the plastic hoods on the old model stock unisaw blade guard, you end up with basically the same device. It doesn't snap in, and you still have to turn a built-in knurled knob to install it (takes all of ten seconds) but you end up with a sturdy, easily installed splitter that serves the main purposes behind using a splitter ... keeping reaction wood from binding the blade past the cut, and keeping stock from engaging the rear of the blade and being thrown back at the operator.
My personal preference is to also forgo the pawls, which in my opinion are no more than lip service to the manufacturer's morbid fear of liability/lawyers.
it
Did you happen to see the MJ Splitter at the Gripper site. Simple small much less expensive, unless you compare pound for pound. ;~)
I have the Steel version as the "plastic" only version did not hold up.
te:
Sure, I'm on the second set of plastic MJ splitters. I broke the first set within days of installing them and I'm confident I can do it again so I bought a set of the "steel" splitters on my trip to Atlanta Tuesday (hadn't seen the steel version before). The kick plaws of the Biesemeyer splitter are very attractive, though. I could retire the stock guard.
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