Gripper?

Just FWIW, a riving knife is part of the new guard you get with the recall on Craftsman radial arm saws.

Reply to
J. Clarke
Loading thread data ...

$171 Yikes! Maybe, though. I'd use it a lot more than the full guard, which not only a PITA to install but makes life more difficult than it needs to be.

Reply to
krw

I thought you got $150 in exchange for the motor? My Crapsman has a splitter and plaws. How is the riving knife better?

Reply to
krw

Rides up and down with the blade, therefore doesn't get in the way of push blocks toward the end of a cut like pawls can, and can generally be left on when doing non-through cuts ... the latter being as big a plus as the safety factor.

There might be more ...

Reply to
Swingman

Gripper?

I hardly know her!

Reply to
Robatoy

I understand how they differ on a table saw, but a RAS splitter does go up and down with the blade. It's part of the blade guard, mounted to the motor.

Reply to
krw

That makes a lot more sense. UL compliance is completely voluntary, so it's in no way a "mandate". ...not that I wouldn't put it past Congress or their bureaucratic minions to do such a thing.

Reply to
krw

It does look rather nicely made. So much so that I'd *hate* to run it into the blade.

Reply to
Father Haskell

Sounds like a great description for a great date!

I hardly know her!

Reply to
Josepi

Yes, it is pricey but it does solve problems.

Reply to
Leon

The workings of a riving knife on a TS are more complicated and I would have to imagine that it would have to be designed in, vs. being an add on.

Reply to
Leon

---------------------------------------------------------------------------­-----

to run it into the blade.

Like a fender on a car parts are replacable. ;~)

Reply to
Leon

Perhaps, but this piece of the tread (and my question) concerned Crapsman RASs.

Reply to
krw

Yes, but it is in the "must think about" range. I do hate taking the factory guard on and off, though. This would solve that problem.

Reply to
krw

---------------------------------- SFWIW, the local community college has fitted Unisaw, General & PM66 with the following:

Delta Anti-Kick-Back (78-968).

About $200 & change.

Snaps in and out as needed.

Sure makes life simple when you need it.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Go out there and win this one for the Gripper!

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

---------------------------------------------------------------------------­-----

to run it into the blade.

------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'd hate to run my hand into the blade ...

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

If you remove the plastic hoods on the old model stock unisaw blade guard, you end up with basically the same device. It doesn't snap in, and you still have to turn a built-in knurled knob to install it (takes all of ten seconds) but you end up with a sturdy, easily installed splitter that serves the main purposes behind using a splitter ... keeping reaction wood from binding the blade past the cut, and keeping stock from engaging the rear of the blade and being thrown back at the operator.

My personal preference is to also forgo the pawls, which in my opinion are no more than lip service to the manufacturer's morbid fear of liability/lawyers.

Reply to
Swingman

it

Did you happen to see the MJ Splitter at the Gripper site. Simple small much less expensive, unless you compare pound for pound. ;~)

I have the Steel version as the "plastic" only version did not hold up.

Reply to
Leon

te:

Sure, I'm on the second set of plastic MJ splitters. I broke the first set within days of installing them and I'm confident I can do it again so I bought a set of the "steel" splitters on my trip to Atlanta Tuesday (hadn't seen the steel version before). The kick plaws of the Biesemeyer splitter are very attractive, though. I could retire the stock guard.

Reply to
keithw86

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.